Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Galapagos Day 3 – Floreana

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009 by virginia

We woke up super early in the morning to take the optional excursion to Post Office Bay. There’s a barrel there where whalers used to drop off letters to their loved ones. People returning to their homeland would stop by the barrel and check to see if there were any letters addressed to whatever city they were going to. It was their duty to take the letter, if any, and deliver it personally. It might take years for a letter to arrive home but I’m sure that whoever was on the receiving end of one of these letters would be ecstatic to hear any word from their loved one.

The Post Office Barrel in Post Office Bay

The Post Office Barrel in Post Office Bay

In keeping with the tradition, we all wrote postcards to place in the barrel and hope that they will arrive at their destinations one day. The naturalists also went through the postcards already in the barrel and yelled out the names of cities in the addresses. People who lived in/near whatever city, or planned on visiting it soon, would raise their hands and take the postcard. Several postcards were matched, including one that we volunteered to take to the upper east side. It was really fun and exciting to take part in such an old tradition.

The postcard we deposited in the barrel in hopes that it will reach our parents one day

The postcard we deposited in the barrel in the hope that it will reach our parents one day

After depositing our postcards in the barrel, we headed back to the ship for a quick breakfast, then we donned our wetsuits and gear for some deep water snorkeling near Champion Island. It was here that we encountered our very first sea turtle, which was almost surreal. The turtle just swam about his business while we clustered around and tried to get a few underwater pictures. The other fish were pretty cool too, but there’s nothing like seeing your first sea turtle up close and personal.

Our first encounter with a sea turtle

Our first encounter with a sea turtle

In the afternoon we had a wet landing on the sandy beach at Punta Cormorant. It was a relatively easy hike next to a large lake that was filled with pink flamingos. Unfortunately we weren’t able to get very close to the flamingos, who were on the other side of the lake from us, but it was pretty cool nonetheless. We watched them feeding in the water (they get their pink color from the small crustaceans they eat) and even saw a few birds taking flight.

Pink flamingos in the distance

Pink flamingos in the distance

We headed to the beach on the opposite shore where we saw the large indentations of sea turtle nests. My hat almost blew off on top of them but I was able to trap it before it would disturb the nests. Phew!

The sandy beach where the sea turtles lay their eggs

The sandy beach where the sea turtles lay their eggs

We spent a while just watching birds flying over head before heading back to the zodiacs. The sun was starting to set at that point and it cast a beautiful pink glow to the sand and the rocks. It was really such a peaceful moment to be standing on the beach looking out at the sunset and hearing the waves lapping against the shore. It really made me appreciate all the beauty that nature has to offer.

Nature at its best

Nature at its best

Breakfast:

Whole wheat toast, bananas, scrambled eggs, bacon, broccoli frittata, pancake, fried yuca filled with cheese

Whole wheat toast, bananas, scrambled eggs, bacon, broccoli frittata, pancake, fried yuca filled with cheese

Lunch:

Fish soup with coconut milk

Fish soup with coconut milk

Penne alfredo, spaghetti bolognese, linguini pesto, french bread, potato salad, chicken salad sandwich

Penne alfredo, spaghetti bolognese, linguini pesto, french bread, potato salad, chicken salad sandwich

Really delicious walnut tart

Really delicious walnut tart

Dinner:

Chicken consomme

Chicken consomme

Rice with raisins, string beans, and super dry practically inedible duck

Rice with raisins, string beans, and super dry practically inedible duck

Tilapia(?) with tasty sauce - way better than the dry duck!

Tilapia(?) with tasty sauce - way better than the dry duck!

Chocolate mousse cake

Chocolate mousse cake

Strawberry shortcake for Hannah's birthday

Strawberry shortcake for Hannah's birthday

Galapagos Day 2 – Española Island

Monday, October 12th, 2009 by virginia

Our first excursion today was a hike at Punta Suarez where we were greeted by an adorable sea lion pup. There was also a huge bull sea lion patrolling the waters and barking nonstop, marking his territory for all to hear.

Adorable sea lion pup

Adorable sea lion pup

After we hike a short distance along the beach, we saw a massive pile of marine iguanas just laying on the side of the path. There must have been at least a hundred of them just clustered together, some lying on top of others.

Big pile of marine iguanas

Big pile of marine iguanas

Further along the path we saw a family of blue footed boobies, with a father sitting on top of two chicks and a mother standing guard nearby.

A happy family of boobies

A happy family of boobies

We were so close to this family yet they were totally unperturbed and sat there peacefully. I really can’t describe how amazing this is.

There's another baby boobie under there as well that's hidden from view

There's another baby booby under there as well that's hidden from view

Then our next sight was two sea lion pups playing together and snuggling next to each other. It was just too cute for words.

Seriously cute pups

Seriously cute pups

As we moved inland, we came across the nesting grounds of the waved albatrosses. These birds are huge! Their chicks are the size of turkeys and not much more attractive. They’re brown and fuzzy and move clumsily across the ground.

Freaky looking waved albatross chick

Freaky looking waved albatross chick

We saw many adults though soaring gracefully overhead; the area is known as the albatross airport. We had some incredible views as we hiked along the cliff, watching the waves crash into the rocks and a blowhole spurting water high into the air.

Birds flying off the cliffs

Birds flying off the cliffs

The albatrosses weren’t the only birds nesting. We came across a Nazca booby (the green footed booby) incubating an egg.

Nazca booby sitting on an egg

Nazca booby sitting on an egg

After we returned to the ship and had lunch, we headed to Gardner Bay, a beautiful stretch of beach where more sea lions were lounging. This was our first opportunity to snorkel so we opted to practice from the beach first before taking a zodiac to a large rock off the shore.

Sea lions laying on the beach and a rainbow in the distance

Sea lions laying on the beach and a rainbow in the distance

The more experienced snorkelers went deep water snorkeling at another location, but because this was my very first time snorkeling, I wanted to try in shallow water first to see how I would react to it. Water, as many of you know, is not my friend. However, I loved snorkeling from the beginning and we soon ventured out to the deeper rock. The very first thing we saw? A gigantic stingray sitting on the floor, half covered by a rock. It was HUGE. We also saw tons of colorful fish and it was absolutely thrilling for me. I’ve been bitten by the snorkeling bug.

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School of surgeonfish

As if the hiking and the snorkeling wasn’t enough, Josh and I also signed up for kayaking for later in the afternoon. The ship keeps six inflatable kayaks that are built for two people. They’re much wider than normal kayaks, and you sit on top of it rather than in it, so it’s much safer as there is less chance for the kayak to tip over. However, they’re also harder to maneuver. We went in circles for a bit before we finally got the hang of it.

Exploring caves in kayaks

Exploring caves in kayaks

We kayaked around a small island, even venturing into a cave to see some of the rock formations. All in all it was a tiring and activity packed day but we saw some truly incredible things.

Breakfast:

Smoked salmon and tomato on whole wheat toast, watermelon, french toast

Smoked salmon and tomato on whole wheat toast, watermelon, french toast

Lunch:

Octopus, crusty french bread, some sort of potato thing with guacamole, watermelon, beef with peppers, chicken stew, yuca

Octopus, crusty french bread, a potato thing with guacamole, watermelon, beef with peppers, chicken stew, yuca

Rice pudding with tree tomato compote

Rice pudding with tree tomato compote

Dinner:

Prosciutto with melon and papaya

Prosciutto with melon and papaya

Chicken in garlic sauce, potato wedges, asparagus

Chicken in garlic sauce, potato wedges, asparagus

Perfectly rare seared yellowfin tuna

Perfectly rare seared yellowfin tuna

Apple crisp with strawberry ice cream

Apple crisp with strawberry ice cream

Galapagos Day 1 – Baltra and North Seymour

Monday, October 12th, 2009 by virginia

After a quick buffet breakfast in our Guayaquil hotel, the Hilton Colon, we headed to the airport with our tour group to board a flight to the Galapagos Islands. There were around 90 of us altogether on this trip. The islands are located about 600 miles west from the coast of Ecuador so the flight time was less than two hours. After we landed at the airport in Baltra, an old U.S. Air Force base, we took buses to the nearby docks where we loaded onto zodiacs that would take us to our ship, the National Geographic Endeavour. Our first inkling that we were in for something special was that the dock was covered in sleeping sea lions. There were sea lions laying on benches and sea lions all over the ground.

Sea lions sleeping on the dock

Sea lions sleeping on the dock

You really had to watch where you walked so you didn’t step on one. And they paid us absolutely no attention; we were an arm’s length away from them snapping pictures and they simply didn’t care. It was astonishing.

Don't step on the sea lion!

Don't step on the sea lion!

Our tour, which is organized by Lindblad Expeditions, is partnered with the National Geographic Society. There are naturalists on board who accompanied us everywhere, giving us detailed explanations about what we were seeing and the history of each particular island in the Galapagos. It’s really a well-put together tour. Even though the Endeavour is a true expedition ship, it did have some some nice amenities, like a large lounge and library to hang out in. There was also a small gym, as well as a small pool out on the sun deck. It’s not one of those gigantic cruise ships that are basically floating hotels though. It’s definitely a bit more rustic, but also more intimate and homey.

After a brief orientation, we had our first lunch on the ship. Lunch is served buffet style, and there aren’t that many choices. Each day there was usually a soup, some salads, and two or three entrees and sides. Our first lunch, a vegetarian cannelloni and some sort of chicken cooked in a tomato sauce, was actually pretty bad. I was a bit worried about how that would bode for the rest of the trip, but luckily the food improved vastly after that meal.

After lunch we had an abandon ship and safety drill, then later in the afternoon we had our first excursion of the cruise. We took zodiacs from the ship to the southern shore of North Seymour. Ships in the Galapagos don’t actually dock at each island so you have to take a zodiac from the ship to the island and have either a dry landing (where you can step from the zodiac straight onto land) or a wet landing (where you land on a beach and need to step out into knee-deep water). North Seymour was a dry landing and as soon as we stepped out we were greeted by more sea lions.

Getting off the zodiac and stepping around a sea lion

Getting off the zodiac and stepping around a sea lion

My first impression of the Galapagos is that it’s actually very arid. There are cactuses and the land was pretty barren looking. These are not tropical islands, though in the spring and summer there is more green on the trees. While we were there, however, all the trees were bare and dry.

Frigate bird coming in for a landing over the dry landscape

Frigate bird coming in for a landing over the dry landscape

The highlights of North Seymour are the blue footed boobies and the great frigate birds. It’s mating season for the frigate birds so the males have these huge red pouches under their beaks that they can blow up into big balloons. The sit on the ground and look up at the females, hoping to attract them with their red pouches.

Male frigate bird with his pouch inflated ready to attract the females

Male frigate bird with his pouch inflated in hopes of attracting the females

The blue footed boobies are really beautiful, with bright blue feet (duh) and intense eyes. Josh and I are immature so we got a big kick out of the naturalist saying “look at the boobies” or “watch the boobies dancing”, which happened numerous times.

Blue footed boobie

Blue footed boobie

We saw frigate birds swooping down trying to steal food from the boobies and they would fight back. It was just incredible being in the middle of everything and being able to observe the wildlife up close.

Sea lion bidding us good night

Sea lion bidding us goodbye

After we returned to the ship there was a cocktail party in the lounge where they introduced us to the captain and the staff. There were cocktail hours every night of the cruise where we’d gather in the lounge for some snacks and drinks (alcohol is extra on the ship) and one of the naturalists would recap the day and Paula, our expedition leader, would tell us about the next day’s activities. It’s a nice time to unwind from the day and whet our appetites for dinner.

Each day the dinner menu is posted after breakfast and you sign up for which entree you want. That way they don’t waste food and can prepare exactly what is needed. I’m sure though that if you changed your mind when dinner came, they would accommodate you. But reducing waste is a big part of their conservation efforts.

Dinner is served by the waitstaff, and everyone kind of just sits wherever there is room. Our dinner companions changed every night, though there were some people we ended up eating with more often than others. It was really quite pleasant and a great way to get to know most of the people on the ship.

There were always three entree options for dinner, and Josh and I would pick the meat entree and the fish entree, ignoring the vegetarian option. Appetizers and desserts were the same for everyone. We would each eat half of our entree and then switch plates, so we could taste both dishes. The food was better on some nights than others, but overall it was pretty good. The fish entrees were consistently good and properly prepared. The meat entrees were more inconsistent but aside from one incinerated duck, nothing was inedible. Plus we were so active each day that we were absolutely starving by the time dinner rolled around. Lets just say that despite all of the hiking, snorkeling, and kayaking that we did, our bellies remained fat as ever!

Breakfast (at the Hilton Colon):

Banana bread, pan de yuca, sweet corn tamale, chicken empanada, some sort of fritter stuffed with cheese, and bacon

Banana bread, pan de yuca, sweet corn tamale, chicken empanada, some sort of fritter stuffed with cheese, bacon

Lunch (on the ship):

Broccoli and cheese soup topped with fresh avocado

Broccoli and cheese soup topped with fresh avocado

Garlic bread, pasta salad, coconut rice, chicken in tomato sauce, vegetarian canneloni

Garlic bread, pasta salad, coconut rice, chicken in tomato sauce, vegetarian cannelloni

Dinner:

Mushroom soup

Mushroom soup

Rice pilaf, spinach frittata, pork tenderloin

Rice pilaf, spinach frittata, pork tenderloin

Fish option (I don't remember what kind of fish it was!)

Fish option (I don't remember what kind of fish it was!)

Chocolate cheesecake

Chocolate cheesecake

Guayaquil Day 1 – Lo Nuestro

Sunday, October 11th, 2009 by virginia

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As with every trip we take, I searched the internet for a nice place to have dinner in Guayaquil. The restaurant that came up most often was Lo Nuestro, which serves classic Ecuadorian cuisine. We asked the concierge in our hotel about it and he said it was the best restaurant in the city. That sounded like a pretty good endorsement so we asked him to make a reservation for us that night.

The restaurant was a short cab ride away from our hotel, the Hilton Colon (you go everywhere by taxi in Guayaquil; rides are super cheap, ranging from $3-5 to go almost anywhere). It had a very homey décor, with countless framed photographs and articles hanging on the walls. It’s a large restaurant but is sectioned off into many smaller dining areas, which gives it a cozy feel. It’s rustic and cluttered and frilly, almost like dining in your grandmother’s house. Not exactly what I was expecting but quite comforting nonetheless.

Cluttered and cozy dining room

Cluttered and cozy dining room

We ordered a bottle of wine to start and decided to split some appetizers and an entree. It’s important to note that portions here are pretty large so they’re good for sharing. The meal started off with some bread that was accompanied by two dips. The bread was white and ordinary but had a nice crispy crust.

Basket of carbs

Basket of carbs

We used the bread to taste the dips, which turned out to be a cheese dip and a super spicy salsa. We weren’t fans of the cheese dip so we steered clear of it for the rest of the meal. It didn’t taste bad, it just didn’t like cheese or much of anything and had a weird pasty texture to it.

Some sort of weird cheese dip

Some sort of weird cheese dip

Josh had thought the salsa was either a roasted pepper or sun dried tomato dip so he had slathered it onto a piece of bread and took a huge bite. Big mistake! It was probably worse because he wasn’t expecting it, but it was shockingly spicy. I tried a little dab and even my tongue was burning. Still, it had a nice tangy flavor and we used it to kick up the flavor of some of the dishes we ordered.

Super spicy salsa

Super spicy salsa

The spicy salsa complemented our order of shrimp empanadas. The empanadas that we had in Ecuador had a thicker, pastier crust made from I think cornmeal. It’s not the thin crispy crust that we’re used here in NYC. It wasn’t bad, just different. I did like the shrimp filling though and thought it worked well with the thicker crust and the spicy salsa.

Shrimp empanadas

Shrimp empanadas

We couldn’t be in Ecuador and not have one of the country’s most well known dishes, ceviche. The restaurant had lots of different options to choose from but we went for their namesake version, Ceviche Lo Nuestro. The ceviche was beautifully presented on a platter and served in two giant clam shells. This was my favorite dish of the night, with fresh and tender pieces of octopus, shrimp, fish, and calamari marinated in tangy lime juice and topped with slivers of sweet red onion.

Ceviche Lo Nuestro

Ceviche Lo Nuestro

Our last appetizer dish was crab claws in garlic sauce. Usually we get shrimp or chicken in garlic sauce, but the crab claws seemed like an interesting change. The claws were meaty and dusted with spices that made them taste a bit smokey. The garlic sauce was mild but tasty, and good for dipping bread into.

Crab claws in garlic sauce

Crab claws in garlic sauce

For our main course, we shared a mixed seafood plate that featured corsiva, a local white fish. I actually liked this fish a lot, because it was meaty but still flaky and tender. The fish was topped with an assortment of mussels, clams, crab claws, calamari, and a jumbo head-on shrimp. The broth that bound the dish together was light and garlicky. It was a fantastic plate of food but we were so full at this point that we barely got through half of it.

Mixed seafood platter

Mixed seafood platter

Near the end of our meal a group of musicians came into the restaurant and started making rounds. There was a female singer with a beautiful, deep voice accompanied by two guitarists. We had a nice time just listening to them perform while we finished off our bottle of wine and Josh had a cortado (espresso with steamed milk). Unfortunately he wasn’t a fan of the cortado, as it was weak and watery, but the rest of the meal was fabulous.

Lackluster cortado

Lackluster cortado

Overall Josh and I both really liked Lo Nuestro a lot. The food wasn’t fancy but it was tasty and comforting. It’s considered to be one of the more authentic restaurants in Guayaquil in terms of classic Ecuadorian cuisine, and it really felt like we were eating something lovingly homemade. If you plan on going to Guayaquil, I absolutely recommend eating at this restaurant. I don’t know if it’s really “the best restaurant in the city” but it’s pretty darn good, and I know you’ll enjoy it immensely.

Lo Nuestro
Guayaquil, Ecuador

Guayaquil Day 1 – Tenedor de Oro

Saturday, October 10th, 2009 by virginia

Josh and I took a super early morning flight to Guayaquil so that we would get there early enough to see some of the city. Guayaquil is a pretty large city and the most populous in Ecuador. There are lots of different neighborhoods to explore so as soon as we dropped our bags off at our hotel, we took a taxi straight to the Malecon, the riverfront area.

There are lots of food stalls all along the Malecon, and we couldn’t decide where we wanted to eat. There were many different options to choose from but we wanted to stick with typical Ecuadorian cuisine. We ended up going ordering from Tenedor de Oro, which I think is a chain because we saw several of those stalls all the way down the Malecon. We hadn’t eaten breakfast or lunch on the plane and we were starving since it was early afternoon at this point, but we had dinner reservations already so we decided to just split an entree and two sides.

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We started off with two cold Pilseners, which are Ecuadorian beers. Not bad, a bit light though in flavor. We prefer darker and hoppier beers. In afternoon heat though, these beers really hit the spot.

There's nothing better than cold beers on a hot day

What's better than cold beers on a hot day?

I was excited to see salchipapas on the menu, as I had just tried them at Pio Pio (post coming later) and absolutely loved them. The french fries were ordinary but they were hot and freshly fried. The hot dogs were cut into the shape of baby octopus, which I thought was cute. That also gave the hot dogs more surface area to crisp up when they were fried, and I really liked this dish.

Salchipapas - hot dogs and french fries

Salchipapas - hot dogs and french fries

The ketchup, however, was really strange! It was pink and almost translucent, with little specks in it. It was also very sweet and mild in tomato flavor. I definitely prefer Heinz over this ketchup.

Fluorescent pink ketchup

Fluorescent pink ketchup

Our other side dish was fried plantains, which we call tostones in NY but they call patacones in Ecuador. These were also freshly fried and not too starchy but they didn’t give us any sort of sauce to go along with them. We asked if they had any salsa picante, or hot sauce, and they seemed a bit confused. We ended up with a little container that I think had mayo and ketchup and some sort of chili sauce mixed together. Not exactly what we were hoping for, but it wasn’t terrible.

Fried green plantains (tostones/patacones)

Fried green plantains (tostones/patacones)

Our main dish was arroz con pollo. It was tasty enough, kind of like fried rice with peas, carrots and peppers mixed in, but there wasn’t a whole lot of chicken. They gave us a huge platter of it though, more than enough for the two of us, and it came with pieces of maduro (sweet plantains) on top that I enjoyed a lot. The dish kind of needed a bit more salt but I liked that they sprinkled fresh herbs on top.

Arroz con pollo

Arroz con pollo

Overall it was a nice quick “snack” and a good introduction to Ecuadorian food. The total for this feast? $7, including the beer. Unreal! They use U.S. Dollars in Ecuador so no need to exchange money or worry about conversion rates. I’d definitely recommend this place to anyone visiting Guayaquil for the first time. Sitting outside next to the river on the Malecon was a scenic and relaxing way to get acquainted with the city and the cuisine.

Tenedor de Oro
Guayaquil, Ecuador

Here are a few highlights from our walk along the Malecon:

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Two Fat Bellies Hit the Road – Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands

Saturday, October 10th, 2009 by virginia

So Josh and I have this sort of “bucket list” of places we want to visit before settling down and having children. The list is huge, and we keep adding to it, so there’s probably no way we’ll be able to go to all of the places on the list before that. We’ve been prioritizing certain places, and Peru was at the very top of our list because we both really want to visit Macchu Picchu.

Josh thinks I’m weird because I hate old places but love ancient places. Visiting old palaces and mansions freaks me out but I couldn’t get enough of the ancient temples and ruins in Egypt and Greece during our honeymoon. It’s probably just because old houses are always musty and I feel confined, whereas pyramids and temples are so majestic and grand. Either way, we were all set to plan our Peru trip this year when we happened upon a deal to the Galapagos Islands that we couldn’t pass up. So Peru will have to wait, but we were in for a trip of a lifetime.

Our trip was from September 25 through October 4. We flew first to Guayaquil, Ecuador, where we stayed the night, then we flew to Baltra in the Galapagos. After cruising through the islands for seven days, we flew back to Guayaquil and stayed one last night there before heading home.

The Galapagos Islands are just incredible. It’s like being in the land that time forgot. Everything just seems so pristine and pure, and the wildlife is simply amazing. The animals show absolutely no fear of humans, allowing us to walk up close to them and observe them basically face to face. We were able to snorkel with playful sea lions and Josh almost ran into a huge sea turtle underwater. We have countless memories from this trip, plus over 3,000 photos and a video summary of our expedition. Don’t worry, we won’t bore you to death with all of our pictures but we’d be happy to share them with anyone who wants to see!

Hilton Head Day 2 – The Studio

Sunday, July 26th, 2009 by virginia

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We had a hard time deciding where we wanted to have dinner so we did a quick internet search for restaurants. The Studio came up as the #1 most popular Hilton Head restaurant on Trip Advisor and the menu looked pretty interesting so we decided to give it a shot. The restaurant has very interesting décor, since it doubles as an art gallery. There are paintings and sculptures decorating the dining room, and the collection is very eclectic. We were greeted very warmly, as our waiter kept emphasizing that we should feel at home while we were in the restaurant. It did kind of feel like we were eating in someone’s very funky dining room.

Our meal started off with soft dense bread and sweet butter. While the bread didn’t have a crispy crust, it was served warm and had a nice chewy texture.

Carbs and butter

Carbs and butter

For my appetizer, I opted for the escargot a la maisonette, which were big plump snails served on top of rounds of sweet potato and finished with a sauce that tasted faintly of licorice. The snails were perfectly tender and juicy and complemented the sweet potato perfectly. While I would have preferred garlic butter, since I’m not the hugest fan of licorice, the sauce was mellow enough to provide just a hint of licorice, and was a nice change from the usually greasy garlic butter that often accompanies escargot.

Escargot a la maisonette

Escargot a la maisonette

Josh’s appetizer of crab and Vidalia onion bisque was the winner of the group, as it was deliciously smooth and rich. You could really taste the crab and sweet onion in the soup, and it wasn’t overwhelmingly covered in cream. I stole several spoonfuls from his bowl, and then scraped it clean at the end with some of the bread.

Crab and vidalia onion bisque

Crab and vidalia onion bisque

For my main course, I had the filet mignon with goat cheese soufflé and blackened shrimp. While the steak was cooked more medium rare than the rare I requested, it was still perfectly tender and well seasoned. The blackened shrimp were absolutely delicious and covered in a mix of spices. I wasn’t a huge fan of the goat cheese soufflé, which was more like goat cheese lightened with something and piped on top of the steak rather than something served in a ramekin. It was a bit too heavy for the dish and I ended up scraping it off to the side. The dish also came with mashed potatoes, which were creamy smooth and buttery. I also liked the red wine reduction that served as a sauce for the steak.

Filet mignon with goat cheese soufflé and blackened shrimp

Filet mignon with goat cheese soufflé and blackened shrimp

I was debating between the filet mignon and the NY strip steak, but only because the strip steak came with truffled mac and cheese. Josh asked if we could just get a side order of the mac and cheese, and the waiter said it would be no problem. That made my decision much easier, and I was thrilled with the mac and cheese. It was creamy and cheesy and had just enough truffle flavor that it didn’t overwhelm the dish. The side serving was actually an ample portion so everyone was able to get a taste before I polished off the rest of the dish. I could have just eaten a huge bowlful of this for dinner and had been completely satisfied.

Creamy truffled mac and cheese

Creamy truffled mac and cheese

Josh had the special of the day, a massive veal chop covered in foie gras butter. The veal chop was cooked medium rare as requested, and was perfectly tender. The foie gras butter was really rich, but I didn’t taste too much foie gras. I enjoyed the few bites that I had but I’m glad I didn’t order it as I never would have been able to finish the chop, which weighed in at almost a full pound.

Veal chop with foie gras butter

Veal chop with foie gras butter

Josh and I also tasted a chop from a friend’s rack of lamb “rogan Josh”, which was covered in tomato cardamom curry. Rogan Josh is my favorite Indian curry, though the Studio’s version was a bit lighter on the spices. The lamb was cooked perfectly though, and I thought it would make a great introduction to Indian food for people who are a bit wary.

Rack of lamb rogan josh

Rack of lamb rogan josh

Unfortunately, not everyone enjoyed their meals at The Studio. Josh’s mom ordered a dish that was called Pad Thai, but bore no resemblance to the pad thai that you get at any Thai restaurant. It was described on the menu as rice noodles and tamarind-curry sauce, but it was very heavy on the curry and had spices that I’ve never encountered in pad thai before. The noodles were also really thick and doughy, not like regular rice noodles. The whole dish was gloppy and pasty. The noodles were supposed to come with flounder and shrimp, but the restaurant very nicely granted her request for just shrimp, and no flounder. While the portion was ample, the dish itself was not what we were expecting. It might have been perfectly tasty Thai curry, but it was not pad thai. I think calling it as such on the menu is very misleading, and as a result, the people who ordered this dish were not happy.

Not quite pad thai

Not quite pad thai

Aside from the poorly named pad thai, I really enjoyed the food at The Studio. There are lots to choose from on the menu, and everything is prepared in interesting ways and comes with lots of different sides. The service was also outstanding. Our waiter was very patient and friendly in dealing with our large party, and the restaurant also very accommodating in granting special requests and substitutions. For example, a few people in our party wanted the Studio salad, which featured greens, apples, gorgonzola, and toasted almonds, but wanted to substitute goat cheese for the gorgonzola. That request was met without any hesitation at all. I would definitely come back here the next time I’m in Hilton Head. There were plenty of things on the menu that I didn’t get to try. Hopefully it won’t be another four years before I’m back.

The Studio
20 Executive Park Rd.
Hilton Head, SC

Hilton Head Day 1 – Aqua Grill & Lounge

Saturday, July 25th, 2009 by virginia

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Because Josh and I only had time for two dinners in Hilton Head (we were leaving before dinner on Monday), we were adamant about eating low country food and not something that we could get here in NYC (i.e., Italian food). We’ve been out of the Hilton Head restaurant scene for so long though, and all our old favorites were either closed or serving subpar food, so Josh’s mom suggested a place we hadn’t been to before, the Aqua Grill.

Since there were so many of us (13 altogether), we were seated at a long table in a semi private room that was separate from the main dining room. That was too bad because the décor in the main room seemed to be really interesting and I kind of wanted to see what it was like. Oh well, we were here for the food anyway. They started us off with soft rolls covered in different kinds of seeds, sort of like an everything bagel. The accompanying butter looked like it was filled with pieces of roasted garlic but when I tasted it, it was actually sweet pecan butter. It was sort of a shock because I was expecting savory garlic flavor, but this was more like dessert. It was tasty though, and made me think I was eating a sweet breakfast roll.

Seeded rolls with sweet pecan butter

Seeded rolls with sweet pecan butter

I knew immediately that I wanted the she crab soup for my appetizer, since I’ve been missing it for the last four years. Aqua’s version was exactly how I remembered it, though they were a bit heavy handed with the sherry on top. But it was smooth and creamy with a subtle crab flavor, and the seasoning was spot on. I ate every last bit of it and cleaned out my bowl with a piece of bread. It’s really a delicious soup, more mellow than chowder or bisques, but that’s what makes it unique.

She crab soup topped with sherry

She crab soup topped with sherry

Josh started with fried green tomatoes that was topped with cheddar cheese, lobster and shrimp salsa, and chipotle sour cream. The presentation was stunning, and fried green tomatoes were perfectly cooked. The toppings were light and refreshing, and everything worked beautifully together.

Fried green tomatoes with lobster and shrimp salsa

Fried green tomatoes with lobster and shrimp salsa

I had a hard time deciding what to eat for my main course, as a lot of things sounded really good. Luckily everyone around me was ordering different things so I knew I could always snag a bite from them. I ended up with the pan blackened mahi mahi served with fried green tomatoes, white cheddar grits, sherry scallion cream sauce, and lump crab salsa. The serving was huge, with all the ingredients stacked on top of each other. The grits were at the base, the fried green tomatoes in the middle, the mahi mahi on top, and the salsa was sprinkled over everything. I definitely need to use a knife and fork to eat it, and tried to get everything together in one bite.

Pan blackened mahi mahi served with fried green tomatoes, white cheddar grits, sherry scallion cream sauce, and lump crab salsa

Blackened mahi mahi with fried green tomatoes, white cheddar grits, sherry scallion cream sauce, lump crab salsa

At first the flavors were really delicious together, with the meaty fish and the tangy green tomatoes and the cheesy grits, bound together with the cream sauce. The more I ate though, the heavier it got. The fried green tomatoes were cut really thick and heavily breaded. The grits had a weird texture to it, almost like undercooked risotto. I’ve only had grits once, at a Waffle House so I don’t know if that counts, but these were very different. It wasn’t as creamy as I thought it would be, and had really crunchy pieces in it. There also wasn’t enough cream sauce to cover the large portion, and so halfway through I ran out, and everything was just a bit too dry. I also didn’t taste any lump crab in the salsa at all. I didn’t see any pieces either, so I don’t know if it was really there, or if it got lost in all the other ingredients. This dish really had a lot of potential, but there was just too much going on, and too much of everything.

Josh had the pecan encrusted grouper. Grouper is a local fish in Hilton Head, and it’s a very meaty and sturdy fish. I wasn’t a huge fan of the texture, as I like my fish to be more delicate and flaky. The accompanying spicy cranberry sauce and basil mascarpone helped moisten everything up though, and I thought it was a sweet and tasty dish.

Pecan encrusted grouper with spicy cranberry sauce

Pecan encrusted grouper with spicy cranberry sauce

The service at Aqua was efficient and attentive, up until we were dealing with the check. I know there were a lot of us, and we were splitting up the bill in different ways, but we tried our best to make it easier on the staff and somehow everything got horribly messed up. Because we were a party larger than 6, gratuity was automatically added to the bill. Fine, no problem. We divided the bill using cash and three credit cards. To make the credit card portion easier, we wrote down the card number and the amount we wanted on each card. We had rounded up in our calculations, so the final amount we were paying was about $3 more than the total bill. We gave everything to the waiter, and when everyone looked at their credit card slips, there was a huge error. Because our bill included gratuity, we had divided it up counting the gratuity. The number we gave the waiter for each card was including that gratuity. Well when he rang it up, he put in the number we gave, and it added another 20% gratuity to each card. So this was on top of the original 20% already in the bill.

Now I know that splitting up bills on different credit cards is a big pain for servers, but we really tried to make it easier on them. We’ve done this a million times in other restaurants, and we never had this problem before. We called the waiter back and explained the situation to him, but he didn’t seem to understand that they were adding an extra 20%. He thought we were quibbling about the extra $3, and offered to pay it back to us out of his pocket. That’s not what we were saying, and we were definitely put off by his attitude. He went to check with a manager, and then came back and said that it was the computer’s fault, because it automatically adds 20%. I don’t know how that makes sense, even if we had paid with just 1 credit card. The gratuity was already in the bill. After a lot of back and forth, he finally came back and gave us a bill, sans the automatic gratuity. So we had to go through the process of calculating everyone’s share without the gratuity, writing it all down again, and then adding in the 20% ourselves when the credit card slip came. This process took over half an hour. No joke. The waiter blamed it on the computer, but it was apparently perfectly capable of spitting out credit card slips without the automatic 20% gratuity, so I think it was just his problem in not understanding the situation. He acted like we were trying to cheat him out his tip, which wasn’t the case at all. We were all offended by his attitude.

After that ordeal, I think we all left the restaurant on a down note. Which was too bad, because I really did enjoy a lot of the meal. The food was tasty and fresh, and the service was great up until that point. Now I have mixed emotions about whether or not I would come back. There are so many great restaurants in Hilton Head that serve similar food, so I don’t need to be subjected to a bad attitude. But maybe the waiter was just having an off day, or he was tired because it was pretty late and they were starting to close up. I don’t know, and I want to give him the benefit of the doubt. So I would probably go back simply because I enjoyed the food, and hopefully next time there won’t be any more credit card/gratuity issues.

Aqua Grill & Lounge
10 North Forest Beach Dr.
Hilton Head Island, SC

Two Fat Bellies Hit the Road – Low Country Cuisine in Hilton Head, SC

Friday, July 24th, 2009 by virginia

Almost every year since I’ve known them, Josh’s family heads down to Hilton Head, SC where Josh and his father golf every morning while everyone else spends the day on the beach or by the pool. It was relaxation at its very best, topped off by wonderful dinners every night at a different restaurant, ranging from down home low country cuisine to kid-friendly pizza parlors to upscale fine dining restaurants serving continental cuisine.

I still remember the first summer that I joined them, in 2003, when we drove down to Hilton Head from NJ, stopping in Charleston and Savannah along the way. I had never experienced “the south” before, and I loved everything from the beautiful houses with wrought iron gates out front to the friendly southerners with their sweet accents, and especially the food, of course – she crab soup, fried green tomatoes, and abundant fresh seafood. It was a new experience for me, since I grew up in a Chinese household where we either ate Chinese food at home or went out for Chinese food on the weekends. Treats for me were the occasional trips to Burger King or Pizza Hut. That trip really opened my eyes and helped turn me into the food lover that I am today.

Josh and I made the journey to Hilton Head for the next few summers after that, but soon “grown up life” set in and we both got jobs where vacation time was limited and we were eager to see other parts of the world. After a four-year hiatus, we finally returned to Hilton Head for a long weekend, just long enough for me to fall in love with it all over again and sad that we couldn’t stay for longer. A lot of the restaurants that I remember fondly are not there anymore but we still had some fabulous meals that brought back wonderful memories of previous Hilton Head trips. I can only hope for the time when these trips will once again become an annual journey for us.

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Vegas Reprise Day 3 – Sea Blue

Monday, July 13th, 2009 by virginia

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Josh had to work today so I met him for lunch again at the Cabana Grill. Not worth discussing again, but I do still love waffle fries! Since I was leaving for the airport right after dinner, Josh wanted to take me out to some place nice. He had heard about a Monday-Tuesday wine special at Sea Blue, a seafood restaurant in MGM Grand, and we decided to check it out.

Sea Blue is a Michael Mina restaurant and I was a bit hesitant about going because of the meal we had at Nobhill Tavern, another Michael Mina place. But the cuisine at Sea Blue is totally different, and Josh had favorable experiences there before, so I went with a hungry appetite and an open mind.

The menu at Sea Blue is not very complicated. There are the typical cold seafood cocktails, a create your own salad menu, and entrees are all grilled with the same side options; the only thing that you choose is your protein. The list of appetizers and sandwiches were more intriguing to us, so we decided to create a meal of small plates.

After ordering a bottle of one of our favorite pinot noirs, a relative bargain after the 50% off wine special discount, we were brought a delicious basket of naan bread and several dips.

Delicious naan bread

Delicious naan bread

The naan, a type of Indian flat bread, was soft and fluffy and the perfect vehicle for the accompanying spreads, which included feta and olive, roasted red pepper, and hummus. There was also some sort of spice sprinkled on the naan that was really savory and delicious, and I ate pretty much the whole basket over the course of the meal.

Feta and olive spread, roasted red pepper dip, and hummus

Feta and olive spread, roasted red pepper dip, and hummus

We asked the waiter to bring out our dishes as they were prepared, since we ordered mostly appetizers and no real main entrées. The first thing out was the cold seafood we ordered, which included raw Hama Hama, Flying Point, and Kusshi oysters, giant gulf prawns, and a ½ pound of Alaksa king crab legs. The oysters were plump and fresh, but some were brinier than others. Unfortunately I don’t remember which ones were the ones I liked better, but they were all pretty good. The gulf prawns really were pretty big, and I liked dipping them in the accompanying grated horseradish and cocktail sauce. The Alaska king crab legs were disappointing though, having just tasted fresh king crab legs at Tracy’s Crab Shack in Alaska. These had sort of a mealy texture that comes from being frozen. They weren’t terrible, certainly better than the ones we had the Bellagio buffet, but nothing compares to the fresh ones.

Assorted oysters, prawns, and Alaskan king crab legs

Assorted oysters, prawns, and Alaskan king crab legs

The soft shell crab sandwich came out next, slathered with sweet and spicy mayo and a cabbage slaw. There was a large deep fried piece on the bun but I couldn’t detect much crab flavor. I thought the breading and the mayo overwhelmed the sandwich, and it tasted a bit greasy. I wasn’t I fan of this dish.

Soft shell crab sandwich

Soft shell crab sandwich

We ordered the lobster corn dogs because Josh had tasted them on a previous trip and liked them. When placed the order though, our waiter tried to convince us to order the calamari instead, and we should have listened to him. These corn dogs were soggy, didn’t have much lobster flavor in the filling, and the whole grain mustard aioli was too sweet. All I tasted was the greasy outer corn coating. Plus there were only four little corn dogs to an order, which cost $15. I definitely think they were bad and not worth the price. I don’t know why Josh liked them the first time, but maybe they had been cooked better. Flavor wise though, they fell short.

Lobster corn dogs

Lobster corn dogs

Up next was the yellowtail jack crudo with pickled strawberry and mint. I thought the presentation was stunning, with the beautiful pink fish and the bright red strawberries and the sprinkling of green mint. However, this tasted more like dessert, and the strawberries overpowered the delicate fish. Yellowtail is my favorite fish, and I couldn’t taste it at all. I thought it was a neat concept but they just didn’t go well together.

Yellowtail crudo with pickled strawberries and mint

Yellowtail crudo with pickled strawberries and mint

Finally, we had the tuna tartare with pine nuts and pomegranate, served with pieces of grilled pita. It was the most unusual tuna tartare that I’ve had, and I liked that it was different. The flavors were definitely Mediterranean, but they threw in a little bit of Asia with ribbons of shiso running throughout. It was an interesting combination and I think it worked well.

Tuna tartare with pine nuts and pomegranate, served with pita bread

Tuna tartare with pine nuts and pomegranate, served with pita bread

Overall I wasn’t really that impressed with Sea Blue. I wasn’t blown away by any of the dishes that we had, and I thought we ordered a pretty good variety of appetizers. We didn’t try any of the grilled fish or meat entrees though, so maybe they are a better way to go. I liked that they were pretty experimental with their flavor combinations, but a lot of them didn’t work. The only thing I really liked was the naan bread. Even though the 50% off wine special was a great deal, I don’t think I’ll be coming back here again.

Sea Blue
At the MGM Grand
Las Vegas, NV