Archive for June, 2009

Rathbones

Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 by virginia

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We ventured up to the Upper East Side in the pouring rain to check out our friends’ new apartment, a charming duplex with a beautiful working fireplace and two terraces off the living room. None of us were all that familiar with the area (two of them used to live with us downtown in the Financial District), but we were all excited by the prospect that there are tons of bars and restaurants in the vicinity, which is a far cry our former neighborhood where everything shut down after work. We headed to Rathbones, a somewhat divey sports pub and grill that I used to go to with my softball teammates after games at Asphalt Green West. I remember they had good wings and a nice variety of beers on tap, but the greatest appeal is the weekly specials. On Tuesday nights, it’s Two for Tuesday, which is essentially buy one get free on all beers (except Guinness), wine, burgers and sandwiches. When else can you get a pint of Sam Adams or Blue Moon for $3 each?

The special runs from 7-11 pm so unsurprisingly when we arrived at 7:30, there was already a long wait for a table. We stood by the bar and had a few beers while watching baseball on the multiple TVs in the bar area. The hostess told us it would be about a 30-minute wait, but it turned out to be closer to an hour. We were finally seated at a booth in the back, which was much more comfortable and less loud than the crowded bar area in front. Luckily, there are also tons of TVs in the back so you won’t miss out on any sports action!

Josh and I both ordered cheeseburgers with swiss, medium-rare. The burger came smothered in cheese, which was nice, as the patty was thick enough to stand up to the flavor of the swiss without being overpowered. They use English muffins at Rathbone’s, which is a nice change once in a while from a standard bun, but the muffin was way too small for the patty, and it wasn’t toasted. It came with a few leaves of lettuce, a slice of tomato, and a thick slice of pickle. No onions, unfortunately, which are my favorite topping.

Burger with a thick layer of swiss cheese and lots of skinny fries

Burger with a thick layer of swiss cheese and lots of skinny fries

The burger was overcooked, more medium-well than medium-rare, but it was still pretty juicy and flavorful. Not bad for a sports bar, and would be better if they could fix the bread-meat ratio by using bigger English muffins. The best part, however, were the fries. Thin, hot and crispy, just the way I like them.

Autopsy shot

Autopsy shot

Overall Rathbones is a great place to have a beer, grab a bite, and watch a game. The food is pretty good and reasonably priced, even without the specials. But after taking into account the two-for-one deal, two cheeseburgers and two hamburgers came out to just under $22, before tip. If you don’t mind the wait for a table, it’s a hard bargain to pass up. I will definitely be back, maybe on Wednesdays for 25 cent wings, or on Fridays when their tasty-sounding French dip is just $6.95. It seems like a great place to have in the neighborhood.

Rathbones
1702 2nd Ave. at 88th St.
New York, NY

Back in Seattle – Le Panier

Sunday, June 28th, 2009 by virginia

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We docked back in Seattle early in the morning after our Alaska cruise was over. We got off the ship as soon as we could to avoid the crowds but we still had a few hours to kill before our flight back home. So what did we do to kill the time? Go back to Pike Place Market of course.

Case of delicious looking sweet pastries

Case of delicious looking sweet pastries

We stopped into Le Panier, a french bakery, for some breakfast. They had delicious looking tarts and pastries but all we could focus on was the bread.

Savory tarts

Savory tarts

The french baguettes looked and smelled incredible, and we couldn’t wait to rip into one. We saw a case of sandwiches made on those beautiful baguettes, and we headed straight for them. Josh and I both wanted a ham and cheese sandwich. We placed our order, and as the bakery worker was handing over the wrapped sandwiches, Josh looked at them and asked if she was sure they were ham and cheese, because the meat looked a bit pale in color and there was lettuce on the sandwich, which wasn’t in the ham and cheese description on the menu. The worker looked at them and said yes, they were ham and cheese. So we said ok and left.

Assortment of baguette sandwiches

Assortment of baguette sandwiches

While we were eating the sandwiches, I kept looking for cheese but didn’t taste any. The meat was also still really pale and kind of stringy in texture. I realized we had received turkey sandwiches, not ham and cheese. Not that the sandwich was bad. It was actually pretty tasty, and the bread was fantasticly crispy and chewy at the same time. But it was not the ham and cheese we were looking forward to having. It was just annoying because Josh specifically asked her if she was sure they were ham and cheese, and she said yes. Arg.

Turkey, not ham, and no cheese

Turkey, not ham, and no cheese

This being Seattle, we also got some coffee for Josh and a iced mochaccino for me. I don’t usually drink fancy coffee drinks but I was in the mood for something cold. This was actually really good, not too bitter and not too sweet, with a hint of chocolate.

Hot coffee and iced mochaccino

Hot coffee and iced mochaccino

Despite the sandwich mistake, I really liked Le Panier. I take my bread very seriously and I’m still craving their baguettes. The other bakery offerings also looked really good but I wasn’t in the mood for sweets that morning. I would definitely come back here and try some other stuff. The macarons were decently sized and pretty cheap, relative to NYC. And I loved the mochaccino I had. The coffee there was so good that Josh’s mom went back and got another iced coffee after she finished her first. I definitely recommend it for anyone who might be going to Seattle.

Le Panier
1902 Pike Place
Seattle, WA

After we filled our bellies with the wrong sandwiches, we walked through the outdoor portion of the market and drooled over all the beautiful produce.

Mushrooms galore

Mushrooms galore

Piles of cherries

Piles of cherries

All in all it was a great way to spend a few hours before heading to the airport and taking the long flight back to NJ. We didn’t get home to NYC until after midnight but we really had a great trip overall.

Alaska Wrap Up – Glacier Bay and Ketchikan

Sunday, June 28th, 2009 by virginia

There were two other highlights on our Alaska trip – Glacier Bay and Ketchikan – that I wanted to share a few pictures of with everyone. Just to warn you: there’s no food! We ate our standard buffet breakfast the morning we were in Glacier Bay, and in Ketchikan we took a sea plane ride that didn’t leave us any time to really explore the town.

Glacier Bay

We spent the morning cruising around Glacier Bay and they were all pretty neat. The ship was able to get relatively close the a few of the glaciers but we didn’t get to see a whole lot of calving (when a piece of the glacier breaks away and falls into the water). We did see a few tiny pieces go, and what was cool was the loud “boom” that you would hear before the pieces fell. You could also hear the glaciers creaking a bit as they shifted. There was also one glacier that had a waterfall underneath it. The amount of water gushing down was pretty incredible.

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Ketchikan

We really didn’t have much time in port in Ketchikan so while everyone else went shopping, Josh, his dad, and I took a sea plane ride to the Misty Fjords National Monument. The sea plane ride was not what I was expecting – it was super bumpy and made my stomach twist and jump. It was nothing like the helicopter ride, which was smooth and didn’t make you feel like you were flying. The sea plane was like flying in the worst turbulence you’ve ever experienced. I seriously thought I was going to be sick at some points. The scenery was pretty, but not as amazing as the glaciers we saw during the helicopter ride in Juneau. We did do a water landing in a lake during the middle of the excursion, which was pretty cool, but otherwise, I don’t recommend taking a sea plane for people who are afraid of flying or get airsick very easily.

We did make a quick loop on foot through the town of Ketchikan before leaving for the sea plane excursion. We had about half an hour so we really tried to make the most of our time, running over to Creek Street and seeing some of the cute stores. It rains a lot in Ketchikan (they call it liquid gold), so we definitely lucked out that we had nice weather while we were here.

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I hope you enjoyed seeing the highlights of our trip to Alaska! Now back to food…

Norwegian Pearl

Sunday, June 28th, 2009 by virginia

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Before we set sail on the Norwegian Pearl, I did what I usually do before going somewhere, which is check out the restaurant situation. I did a bunch of google searches but I couldn’t find full reviews of the restaurants on board. I knew there were restaurants that were included in our cruise fare, as well as ones that required a cover charge, but I couldn’t find too many details about each one.

After we got back from the trip, I was initially just going to write a brief overview about the food on the ship but thinking back, I decided to write full reviews so that other potential cruisers might get a better idea of what the food is like on the Pearl. Personally, I wish that I had known beforehand more about each restaurant and which restaurants were worth the extra cover charge because we might have chosen differently. I won’t cover every single thing we ate (which was A LOT of stuff) but I’ve highlighted some of the hits and the misses.

Garden Cafe

The Garden Cafe is the buffet on the ship. We ate breakfast and lunch there basically every day, and though some of the hot entrees changed during lunch, it was the same food for the most part. For breakfast, I usually had smoked salmon either on a roll with cream cheese or as salmon eggs benedict. Breakfast potatoes with peppers and onions fulfilled my carb craving, and there was plenty of bacon, both crisp and chewy for people who prefer one over the other.

Smoked salmon, cream cheese, onion, tomato, and capers on rolls with breakfast potatoes

Smoked salmon, cream cheese, onion, tomato, and capers on rolls with breakfast potatoes

Crispy bacon, smoked salmon eggs benedict, croissant, waffles

Crispy bacon, smoked salmon eggs benedict, croissant, waffles (not the same breakfast! I'm a pig, but not that much of a pig)

For lunch, I mostly stuck with the same things each day – hamburgers, pizza, sandwiches, and salad. I did try some of the hot entrees occasionally, but none of them ever tasted that good and were often the wrong texture. Meats were often tough and overcooked. There was a sushi station, but it didn’t serve any raw fish, just vegetarian and california rolls.

Pizza, tuna salad on a croissant, grilled chicken caesar wrap, and macaroni and cheese and fish nuggets that I took from the kids station

Pizza, tuna salad on a croissant, grilled chicken caesar wrap, and macaroni and cheese and fish nuggets that I took from the kids station

The burgers were standard, but I liked them better than the other options. And when there was a huge lunch rush, it actually worked out better because they cooked the burgers more quickly, resulting in a less dried out patty.

Decently cooked burger autopsy shot

Decently cooked burger autopsy shot

There was also a pasta bar in the buffet, where you can pick your noodle and have your choice of sauces. I tried the farfalle with bolognese sauce one day and it wasn’t too bad. Fortunately the pasta wasn’t horribly overcooked, since they par boil it and then heat it through in a pan with the sauce.

Farfalle with bolognese sauce, meatballs, "muffaletta" sandwich, pretzel roll

Farfalle with bolognese sauce, meatballs, "muffaletta" sandwich, pretzel roll

I was really impressed with the salad bar at the buffet, as they had a wide variety of lettuces and toppings. They had all the usual standards (romaine, iceberg, cucumbers, tomatoes, etc.), but they also had artichokes and olives and different meats and cheeses available. I was surprised to see arugula offered by itself, as it’s a pricer lettuce than romaine or iceberg or those prepackaged mixed greens.

Most days I’d have a big plate of arugula topped with some parmesan cheese and lightly dressed with olive oil and lemon wedges. I also enjoyed the caesar salads, which they would toss in front of you to spread out the dressing. Topped with pieces of grilled chicken, this was another lunch staple for me.

Arugula with parmesan and chicken caesar salad

Arugula with parmesan and chicken caesar salad

The most dangerous thing about the buffet is the unlimited daily access to french fries and soft serve ice cream. When we were bored on the ship, which was a lot of the time, we’d go for a snack of french fries and ice cream. The thinner fries were best, but you never knew when they would pop up. One batch might be skinny, and the next batch would be thicker fries. There was high turnover for the fries though, so at least they were always hot and crispy.

The soft serve ice cream also varied for some reason. Sometimes it would be a bit icier, and for a few days, it was super thick and creamy, like custard. Ice cream was so popular on this trip that they actually ran out of ice cream cones before the cruise was over.

Yummy soft serve ice cream

Yummy soft serve ice cream

Overall I didn’t hate the buffet. There was decent variety and you just figure out right away what you like and don’t like, and you stick with it. Even picky eaters will find something they like. I ended up eating the same things each day, but I didn’t mind. There are seats inside and outside, so most days we sat on the back deck and watched the scenery go by as we ate. It was relaxing and helped pass the time.

Indigo

Indigo was the more casual main dining room on the ship. It served the same menu as the Summer Palace, the other main dining room, but it didn’t have a dress code. It operated like a restaurant, with waiters and waitresses and a large menu offering appetizers, soups, salads, and entrees. Reservations were recommended, but not required. The menu changed every day, and would be posted outside the restaurant each night. We would always check out the next night’s menu and decide if there were enough items that interested us. If there weren’t, then we would opt for one of the other restaurants that required a cover charge.

We ended up eating at Indigo twice during our cruise. The first time was lobster night, one of the more popular nights at the main dining rooms. The lobster ended up just being eh, as they were frozen tails shipped in from Australia. They were tough and chewy and a total disappointment to the New Englanders in our group.

Lobster and grouper over basmati rice with asparagus and diced vegetables

Lobster and grouper over basmati rice with asparagus and diced vegetables

I happened to order the duck that night, and it was absolutely delicious. It didn’t have crispy rendered skin, but it was actually cooked to medium rare and was juicy and tender.

Soyu glazed duck

Soyu glazed duck

Appetizers were a mixed bag. I had a decent tuna tartare that tasted pretty good, but Josh’s mom was put off by the gray color of the tuna.

Tuna tartare

Tuna tartare

But on another night, what was described as a scallop appetizer turned out to have only three tiny bay scallops in the dish.

Asparagus, bay scallops, shiitake mushroom, miso vinaigrette

Asparagus, bay scallops, shiitake mushroom, miso vinaigrette

Desserts also varied in quality depending on what you ordered. Crème brulee was pretty decent, if a bit too sweet. But it had an appropriately crispy sugar crust the crackled under the spoon.

Honey creme brulee

Honey creme brulee

Chocolate cake with vanilla sauce, which was billed as one of the “Cooking Light” options, tasted as such. It was neither chocolately nor satisfying.

"Cooking Light" chocolate mousse cake with vanilla sauce

"Cooking Light" chocolate mousse cake with vanilla sauce

Overall Indigo wasn’t terrible, but it was far from great. There were some offerings, like caesar salad and steak frites, that were available every night so if you weren’t into whatever specials they had on the menu that day, you could always go with a standby dish.

Grilled sirloin steak with peppercorn sauce and french fries

Grilled sirloin steak with peppercorn sauce and french fries

The restaurant was a nice change from the buffet, and the only thing you had to pay extra for was drinks (soda, alcohol). You don’t have to tip the waitstaff (unless you really wanted to), as an automatic gratuity is charged to your cabin at the end of the trip ($12/person per day). And because food is unlimited on the cruise, if you want to order two appetizers, go ahead. If you want an extra lobster tail at dinner, don’t be shy about asking. The waitstaff is pretty accommodating and no one is in a rush to kick you out. You could eat at Indigo (or the Summer Palace) every night and be perfectly satisfied.

Teppanyaki

In addition to the buffet and the main dining rooms, the ship also offers other restaurants where you pay a cover charge to eat in. The charges ranged from $10-$25, but I’m not sure if all of them are worth it.

We ended up checking out the dinner menus at Indigo every day before deciding whether we wanted to eat at a pay restaurant. If there wasn’t much available that we liked, then we would go for the pay restaurant. While Indigo’s menu changed every day, the others always stayed the same so it didn’t matter which day you went.

The Teppanyaki restaurant was an additional $25 charge per person and offered seafood and prime cut meats that were cooked on the hibachi in front of you. This was one of the more popular restaurants, especially with families that had children, as the hibachi chefs put on quite the show. Seating was also limited, as the ship didn’t have too many hibachi tables, so reservations are a must have.

We started the meal off with miso soup, which was pretty standard but tasty.

Miso soup

Miso soup

We also received a small portion of edamame but they were kind of limp and sad and didn’t have enough salt on them.

Edamame

Edamame

Next came the seaweed salad, with strips of seaweed and cabbage mixed together, topped with cucumbers, carrots, and tomatoes. The dressing was sort of a watered down thousand island dressing, not the tangy carrot ginger dressing that I’m used to.

Seaweed salad

Seaweed salad

All the meals came with vegetables cooked on the hibachi. The chef meticulously laid all the ingredients out, and made sure to flip over each piece.

Meticulously laid out vegetables on the hibachi

Meticulously laid out vegetables on the hibachi

It was kind of amusing to watch, since hibachi chefs usually just flip the vegetables around like if he were cooking stir fry, but this chef was really methodic about it and presented each person with a beautiful little stack.

Carefully stacked vegetables

Carefully stacked vegetables

We also got fried rice, which is just rice, eggs, and soy sauce all cooked together on the hibachi.

Fried rice

Fried rice

Josh and I both ordered the Land & Sea option, which came with filet mignon that was pretty tender and cooked rare to order.

Filet mignon

Filet mignon

And it came with shrimp, but only four tiny little pieces.

Tasty shrimp from the hibachi

Tasty shrimp from the hibachi

For dessert, there was fruit “sashimi”, which were thin slices of fruit that came with assorted dipping sauces. I thought it was a simple dish, and kind of disappointing because you can get all the fruit you want at the buffet.

Fruit sashimi

Fruit sashimi

There was also mochi ice cream, which were small balls of mochi filled with mango ice cream and green tea ice cream. I like mochi so I enjoyed these, but people who aren’t familiar found the texture to be off-putting.

Mango and green tea mochi ice cream

Mango and green tea mochi ice cream

Overall the food wasn’t bad but portions were pretty tiny. We ate here on our first night, so we didn’t realize that you could actually order more than one main course if you wanted to. Some other people around us added lobster tails to their order, but we didn’t know you could do that.

So if you do decide to eat at the Teppanyaki restaurant, just remember that you’re not limited to just one menu choice. We were pretty unsatisfied after our meal, and I didn’t think it was worth the extra $25. The food was not as tasty or as well seasoned as the food we get from our hibachi restaurant at home, and at $25, it was actually more expensive than most of the options we get at home. You don’t get as much food, and they didn’t serve noodles, which are usually my favorite. There was also no mustard sauce, which is a huge deal for me because hibachi just doesn’t taste as good without mustard sauce. So in my opinion, unless you’re really craving hibachi for some reason and can’t live without it for a week, skip this restaurant and just wait until you get home.

Shabu Shabu

Of all the restaurants that required an extra cover charge, I thought Shabu Shabu was the best value. For $15, we got a massive amount of food that we couldn’t even finish, and there was a lot of variety as well. In addition to the edamame and seaweed salad that we also had at the Teppanyaki restaurant, we received assorted vegetables, tofu, meat, noodles, and dumplings that we could cook ourselves right at our table.

Shabu shabu is basically like Chinese hot pot, or like fondue. You receive raw ingredients and cook them in a broth that is heated on a hot plate at the table. As the ingredients finish cooking, you scoop out whatever you want to eat and it’s guaranteed to be hot and cooked to the temperature you want. It’s a lot of fun to dump stuff into the broth and watch it cook in front of your eyes. As the meal goes on, the broth acquires more and more flavor, and then you can drink it if you’d like. If the the broth runs low, they’ll add in more. It’s as simple as that.

We opted for the seafood broth instead of the chicken broth, because my dad has a serious aversion to poultry (he grew up in a market in Taiwan with a lot of chickens and can’t stand the smell, even to this day). The meat that comes with the dinner includes beef and chicken, but we just asked for extra beef and no chicken for the same reason. No one gave us a hard time about that. We added vegetables to the broth first, to give it some more flavor. They gave us cabbage, carrots, onions, shiitaki and enoki mushrooms, as well as some tofu. The mushrooms were my favorite and added an earthiness to everything.

Vegetables, mushrooms, and tofu ready to go in the pot

Vegetables, mushrooms, and tofu ready to go in the pot

A second plate of vegetables came with lettuce, spinach, snow peas, broccoli, and more mushrooms.

More vegetables and mushrooms

More vegetables and mushrooms

Once everything was bubbling away, we started adding the beef. The smells coming from the broth were absolutely incredible.

The hot pot

The hot pot

The beef was sliced super-thin and cooked very quickly. It only needed to be dunked for about a minute or two before it was ready to be eaten.

Thin slice of beef pulled from the hot pot

Thin slice of beef pulled from the hot pot

Next up were the noodles, and they gave us lots of different kinds to choose from. There were thin and thick rice noodles, ramen noodles, and udon noodles.

Four different kinds of noodles

Four different kinds of noodles

My favorite were the thicker udon, which I cooked briefly to retain their bite.

Perfectly cooked udon noodles

Perfectly cooked udon noodles

Last up were the dumplings, which came with pork and leek, shrimp, and vegetable. These were frozen but still cooked quickly in the broth and were pretty tasty. My favorite was the pork and leek; the vegetable ones were kind of bland. It was hard to tell which kind you fished out of the broth though, so you wouldn’t know which dumpling you got until you bit into it.

Big pile of dumplings

Big pile of dumplings

We were stuffed but made room for ice cream. I got green tea, except it was really pale and had no green tea flavor at all. Bleh! Josh fared better with the coconut ice cream, which was appropriately coconutty and rich.

Supposedly green tea ice cream

Supposedly green tea ice cream

I really enjoyed Shabu Shabu a lot. It was a fun and interactive meal, and completely satisfying. I liked the variety of food we got and all the vegetables and meat were really fresh. The waitstaff was really nice and very attentive. They made sure our pot was always full of broth and brought us more of whatever we wanted. This was definitely one of my favorite meals during the whole cruise.

Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon was a casual restaurant that’s open 24 hours. There’s no cover charge, it has table service, and it serves a bar menu (i.e., chicken tenders, buffalo wings, artichoke dip) that is good for days when you’re craving comfort food.

We were sick of the buffet one day so we decided to come here for lunch. The restaurant is located in the middle of the ship, and we made sure to snag a table right next to the window. It was great for doing some whale watching, and we saw several whales during our meal, as well as some seals that were slipping in and out of the water next to us. Pretty cool stuff.

We started out with an order of spinach and artichoke dip topped with romano cheese. It was a little bit greasy, but creamy and gooey. It wasn’t the greatest spinach and artichoke dip, but it was pretty satisfying. My main complaint though was that it was served lukewarm.

Spinach and artichoke dip

Spinach and artichoke dip

My mozzarella, roasted pepper, and basil panini was also a bit lukewarm. The cheese wasn’t quite melted all the way, which was too bad because it was actually a really tasty sandwich. The bread was pressed and crispy and the ingredients really worked well together. The sandwich came with fries that were just ok, decent cole slaw, and a few random leaves of arugula.

Mozzarella, roasted pepper, and basil panini with french fries and cole slaw

Mozzarella, roasted pepper, and basil panini with french fries and cole slaw

Josh got an order of hot wings, which were served hot and spicy and were really delicious. The hot sauce wasn’t quite like buffalo sauce, maybe a little bit more tomatoey in taste, but it was really good. It was a large order and completely satisfying.

Hot wings

Hot wings

Overall the Blue Lagoon was a nice break from the lunch buffet and a relaxing way to spend some time whale watching indoors. We ordered a bucket of Alaskan Amber beer and ate our lunch at a leisurely pace. The food was ok, but would have been better if they were served hotter. The advantage of the restaurant is that it’s open 24 hours, so we would stop by after having some drinks late at night and get an order of chicken tenders or some pick up some dessert to cap off our evening. It’s a very convenient go-to place on the ship.

Le Bistro

Le Bistro was the fanciest of all the pay restaurants we went to. It even had Versace dinnerware as its place setting, which I thought was pretty neat (yes, we turned the plates over to see). Despite the fancy décor, however, the cover charge was on the lower end at $15, and I think it was worth the extra money.

Real Versace place setting

Real Versace place setting

I had a hard time choosing what appetizer I wanted so I spent a long time negotiating with Josh to pick our top two choices and split them 50-50. We decided on the onion soup au gratin and the escargots bourguignonne. When we placed our order, however, the waiter encouraged us order two appetizers each. Perfect! So I ended up having the onion soup as well as a duo of foie gras terrine and smoked duck breast, while Josh stuck with the onion soup and escargots.

The onion soup was one of the best things I had all cruise. It was rich and beefy and absolutely satisfying. My only complaint was that it wasn’t completely covered in cheese; only the crouton had cheese on it. Still, it was really delicious as is.

Onion soup au gratin

Onion soup au gratin

The foie gras terrine was a bit of a disappointment as it was way more livery than foie gras usually tastes. It definitely had the funky flavor that you would find in any liverwurst. The smoked duck breast was good, but it didn’t really go with the foie gras. I ended up spreading the terrine on accompanying brioche toast and eating the smoked duck separately.

Foie gras terrine and smoked duck breast

Foie gras terrine and smoked duck breast

The escargots were served with the traditional garlic herb butter, and they were hot and delicious. But how can you go wrong with garlic and butter?

Escargots bourguignonne

Escargots bourguignonne

For my main course, I chose the roasted rack of lamb. It came with sauteed artichokes, cherry tomatoes, zucchini, and a green olive sauce. The lamb was cooked rare to order, but it had a huge layer of fat on it. I know that cooking it rare means less time for the fat to melt, but this was an excessive layer. I tried to cut it off but there was just too much of it, so I didn’t get to nibble on the lamb bones, which is usually my favorite part. The dish was just ok; I’ve definitely had tastier lamb elsewhere.

Rack of lamb with olive sauce

Rack of lamb with olive sauce

Josh had the special of the night, a veal chop served with asparagus and potato gratin. The waiter failed to mention, however, that the veal chop was stuffed with bleu cheese. Ugh. Josh and I both hate bleu cheese with a passion. Although he tried to scrape it out, there was just too much of it and we could taste it throughout the dish. Cutting the veal chop in half to stuff it also caused the meat to be overcooked, so it was pretty dry and tough.

Veal chop stuffed with bleu cheese

Veal chop stuffed with bleu cheese

For dessert I had a chocolate “napoleon” that was kind of weird. It had chocolate cake at the bottom, and a ring of chocolate on top, but I have no idea what was in between. Maybe some sort of hazelnut cream? No clue. It was pretty though.

Chocolate napoleon

Chocolate napoleon

Josh had crepe suzettes, which were doused with grand marnier. They had a nice orangey flavor but were way too sweet.

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Crepe suzettes

Overall I was a bit disappointed with Le Bistro, but the restaurant had so much potential. The appetizers were definitely better than the entrees so I’m glad the waiter encouraged us to order two. I still left the restaurant full but not completely satisfied. Josh’s mom had a filet mignon, which was cooked perfectly, but she said it had absolutely no flavor. The onion soup was really wonderful though. The $15 cover charge isn’t totally outrageous, and you do get to dine in a really nice atmosphere. If you really like french food, then I think it would be worth the extra charge.

Summer Palace

We only ate at the Summer Palace on the last night of our cruise, as we were deterred by the dress code. However, we heard from other people that the dress code was not enforced, so we went in jeans and sweatpants and it was totally ok. No one bothered us about how we looked.

I couldn’t decide which appetizer I wanted, and this being a cruise with unlimited food, I ordered two appetizers (my sister did as well, so I didn’t feel as bad). The first was a seafood ceviche, but it was kind of gross. It had overcooked shrimp and calamari and bay scallops in it, and it was covered in what tasted like salsa. Definitely not like ceviche.

Seafood ceviche, sort of

Seafood ceviche, sort of

The second, a strawberry soup with a balsamic reduction drizzled on top, tasted like a smoothie. It was really good but more like dessert than an appetizer. I think it needed a bit more balsamic vinegar to make it more savory. I still enjoyed it though.

Strawberry soup with balsamic drizzle

Strawberry soup with balsamic drizzle

The last night happened to be another lobster night, and it was the same tough and dry Australian lobster tails, served over pasta. The pasta wasn’t so bad, but the lobster was still a disappointment. Josh wasn’t thrilled with his meal.

Seafood pasta with lobster

Seafood pasta with lobster

I ordered the rack of lamb though, and it was fabulous. It was way better than the rack of lamb that I had at Le Bistro, and this one didn’t have an extra cover charge! To avoid the same problem I had last time with the huge layer of unmelted fat, I ordered my lamb medium rare and it was cooked perfectly. They also cleaned the bones better this time so I was able to nibble away happily. The accompanying lentils were also cooked perfectly, with just a little bite to them. Overall this was a really well put together dish.

Rack of lamb served over lentils

Rack of lamb served over lentils

For dessert we had a pistachio pot de crème, which was good but not so strong in pistachio flavor. It was rich and creamy though.

Pistachio pot de creme

Pistachio pot de creme

We also had a molten chocolate cake, which was standard.

Molten chocolate cake

Molten chocolate cake

Between the two main dining rooms, Indigo and the Summer Palace, I prefer Indigo. The Summer Palace is a bit stuffy in décor, though it might make people think they’re dining on the Titanic or some other classic cruise ship. They didn’t enforce the dress code with us, but we dined pretty late and the huge room was almost empty, so maybe that was why they let us slide. Indigo has much more modern décor and just seems a bit hipper. They both serve exactly the same food though, so it just depends on your personal preference. Either way, these restaurants are a nicer option than eating at the buffet yet again.

Overall I didn’t think the food on the Norwegian Pearl was that bad. It certainly wasn’t the best food, but it was passable. I was never really wowed by anything, but I also wasn’t grossed out by anything. We ate a lot, and often, because there wasn’t much else to do on the ship. Yes there’s a casino and a pool and bars and sports courts and a gym and a spa and other activities, but you’re on the ship basically for an entire week, minus a few hours when you’re in port. And some days you don’t go to any port, so you’re stuck on the ship the entire day. Only little kids played in the pool (it was freezing out on deck but I guess the pools are heated), and the sports courts were generally always occupied.

Pool and water slide

Pool and water slide

We did clumb the rock wall on our last day, but it only took 15 minutes and made me super sore (I’m very out of shape).

My pathetic attempt at rock wall climbing

My pathetic attempt at rock wall climbing

We bowled one night, but at $5 a game, it’s not exactly cheap.

There were four bowling lanes on the ship

There were four bowling lanes on the ship

Drinking was our main activity, whether it was drinking while whale watching in Spinnaker’s Lounge or having drinks before dinner at the Crystal Pavilion, but drinks are also pretty pricey. We stuck mostly with beer, which was $5-$7 a bottle. Everything is charged to your room (you carry around a key card that they swipe) so beware of sticker shock at the end of the trip. They’re also super pushy with the alcohol, which was a huge turnoff for us. Within 30 seconds of walking into a bar, at least two different people will come by and ask you if you want a drink. Even if you’re already holding one. It was pretty ridiculous and very annoying, so just be warned.

As I mentioned earlier, I don’t think cruising is for me. I didn’t feel active and most of the time I was pretty bored. But I loved all the ports we went to and all of our excursions. The scenery in Alaska is worth suffering through a cruise for. I’d love to go back and explore some of the other areas that we didn’t get to go to on this trip, but hopefully I can do those areas without having to cruise.

Victoria, BC – Wharfside Eatery

Saturday, June 27th, 2009 by virginia

The last port of call on our cruise before we returned to Seattle was Victoria, British Columbia. We got there in the afternoon and we were leaving only a few hours later so we decided to just explore the city instead of traveling all the way to Butchart Gardens. We ended up seeing the Parliament building, walking around the harbor, exploring the grounds of the Empress hotel, visiting a small night market along the water, and walking through the main shopping district. It’s a cute little city, very clean and pretty, so it was too bad that we didn’t have much time to spend there.

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Wharfside Eatery

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After walking around for a few hours, we decided to get dinner in the city rather than back on the ship. We opted for a restaurant near the water called Wharfside, which obviously served seafood. We got a few pints of local beers and ordered some appetizers to share.

We started out with lobster bruschetta, which was like lobster salad mixed with celery, basil and mayonnaise, and served on top of rounds of toast. These were pretty tasty and not too mayo-y so even Josh enjoyed it.

Lobster bruschetta

Lobster bruschetta

We also got an order of fried calamari that was served with tzatziki sauce instead of the standard marinara, which I thought was a nice twist. Unfortunately the calamari weren’t very crispy and were served kind of cold.

Fried calamari with tzatziki sauce

Fried calamari with tzatziki sauce

Josh, his dad, and I split half a dozen oysters on the half shell. Though they were kind of small, they tasted fresh and had lots of briney liquid coming out of them, which I liked.

Oysters on the half shell

Oysters on the half shell

For my main course, I opted for the fish and chips. I had a choice between pacific cod and alaskan halibut. The waiter told me the alaskan halibut was better, even though the pacific cod was local. He didn’t really give a reason why, but choosing the halibut was an extra charge. It was a pretty good rendition of fish and chips though, as it was super meaty and nicely crispy, but I don’t know if the halibut made such a difference. The chips were seasoned potato wedges and sweet potato fries, which were a bit limp and not crispy enough, but they were still tasty.

Fish and chips

Fish and chips

Josh and his mom got a seafood platter for two, which came with mussels, fried oysters, alaska king crab legs, local clams, wild salon, and tempura prawns. They were looking forward to having fresh seafood after being on the boat for so long. They added half a lobster to their order as well. It was a lot of food, but unfortunately not that good. The seafood was overcooked and didn’t seem that fresh to us.

Seafood platter for two

Seafood platter for two

In the end I really wasn’t that impressed with the food at Wharfside. We didn’t really know anything about the restaurant when we walked in but it looked like a nice place. The food just didn’t deliver. Everything was the wrong temperature and not all of the seafood seemed that fresh, which is a bit no-no for a place that touts its seafood. The service was fine, but everything was really overpriced, especially with the exchange rate the way it is now. When we got into a cab to return to the ship, the cabbie mentioned that we probably got the “tourist” menu, which wouldn’t surprise me. It was a disappointing experience overall.

Wharfside Eatery
1208 Wharf St.
Victoria, BC

Skagway – British Columbia – Yukon – Caribou Crossing

Wednesday, June 24th, 2009 by virginia

In Skagway we opted to take a train ride through mountains on the White Pass rail. The train traveled approximately 30 miles from Skagway to Fraser, British Columbia. The view was impressive from the train, but the best part was when we got off the train and onto our shuttle bus in Fraser for the remainder of our tour. We saw lots of mountain goats and even a black bear eating flowers on the side of the road. Our driver was really informative, and the best part about being on a shuttle bus rather than a full size charter bus was that we could ask him to stop wherever we liked. At one point we saw another bear across the highway and he hit the brakes and pulled a quick k-turn right there in the middle of the road. A charter bus never would have been able to do that. Unfortunately, that maneuver scared the bear away but not before we saw it stand up on its two hind legs and look at us curiously.

The scenery in British Columbia was spectacular, and we saw some of the most beautiful lakes imaginable. I’ll get to the food in a minute, but please take a look at some of my favorite shots from this tour. We booked this excursion through Chilkoot Charters, not the cruise line. I highly recommend this company for anyone who is interested in touring the Yukon while they’re in port in Skagway.

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The smallest desert in the world

The smallest desert in the world

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Caribou Crossing

In Carcross, Yukon, we stopped at a trading post called Caribou Crossing for lunch. The visit, and lunch, was included in our tour package. We didn’t really get a choice of what we wanted to eat, as it is served cafeteria style, but the day we were there the entree was bbq chicken, which was very moist and delicious. Sides included cole slaw, which I liked a lot because it tasted like it was mixed with horseradish sauce, and roasted potatoes.

BBQ Chicken, roasted potato, cole slaw, and dinner rolls

BBQ Chicken, roasted potato, cole slaw, and dinner rolls

Doughnuts are the specialty at Caribou Crossing. There were dozens of plain old fashioned and cinnamon sugar doughnuts on a big table in the middle of the dining room, and you could take as many as you wanted. Josh and I weren’t total pigs, so we just took one of each.

Cinnamon sugar and plain doughnuts

Cinnamon sugar and plain doughnuts

The food at Caribou Crossing was simple but tasty. You eat lunch in a big wooden lodge with picnic tables. It’s rustic but fun, like you’re eating at camp.

The best part of Caribou Crossing though is that it also has a wildlife museum, dog sled rides, horses, and husky puppies. These puppies were so unbelievably adorable. They were in a big pen and you could walk in and pick them up and cuddle them. PUPPIES!

HUSKY PUPPY!

HUSKY PUPPY!

The wildlife museum is basically an homage to taxidermy. There were stuffed animals – real ones – depicting different poses in the wild. It was neat, but also a bit creepy.

Stuffed polar bear

Stuffed polar bear

Lots of stuffed animals

Lots of stuffed animals

Overall Caribou Crossing was a fun place to spend a few hours and stretch our legs a bit. You can opt to take a dog sled ride, which is being pulled in a cart by huskies. It’s not the same as riding a sled on ice, but the people who did it seemed to enjoy themselves. It was a really interesting trading post with lots to do. And did I mention PUPPIES?

Caribou Crossing
Carcross, Yukon

Juneau – Tracy’s King Crab Shack

Tuesday, June 23rd, 2009 by virginia

Our first port of call was in Juneau, where we had arranged for a shore excursion of a helicopter ride and a visit to a dog sled camp. Due to the bad weather, however, our tour was cancelled. It was raining and the clouds were too low for our helicopter to take off. I was really upset at first but luckily we were able to snag a spot on a different helicopter tour that left later in the day. This tour, the pilot’s choice, included landing on two different glaciers but no visit to the dog sled camp. Still, it was better than nothing.

The helicopter ride was truly incredible. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, and landing on the glaciers was like landing on another planet. It was really an unforgettable experience, and I’m thrilled that we were able to do it.

Now please bear with me, because I want to share with you a “few” highlights of our tour. These pictures don’t do the glaciers justice but I think they’re worth looking through:

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Ok back to the food portion of this blog:

Tracy’s King Crab Shack

The nerve-wracking thing for me though was not riding in a helicopter through rainy clouds (the ride was surprisingly super smooth, not like flying at all), but that because our tour left later than we originally planned, I was afraid we would miss out on going to Tracy’s King Crab Shack, which my brother told me was a must-visit place in Juneau.

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Located on the pier right next to the Holland America dock, it’s easy to miss unless you know what you’re looking for. It really is a shack, with a window out front where you order from, and a few picnic tables under a tent next to it. Luckily Josh’s mom and my parents had skipped out on the helicopter excursion so they went ahead to the crab shack and got us a bucket of legs before it closed. The shack was out of claws though, but the legs were still pretty darn good.

Bucket of king crab legs

Bucket of king crab legs

These king crab legs were seriously huge, although the pictures don’t do them justice. One leg was almost as long as my arm. And the meat was sweet and succulent, better than any crab I’ve ever eaten. There was no need for sauce or butter, the crab was delicious on its own.

We also got some crab bisque, which was just the thing to warm us up as it was raining heavily at this point. The bisque was sweet and creamy and had lots of crab flavor.

Rich and creamy crab bisque

Rich and creamy crab bisque

Tracy’s King Crab Shack is a bit pricey (if you get a bucket, it comes out to a little less than $20/lb) but it’s absolutely worth it. The king crab is really the best crab you’ll ever eat. It’s even sweeter and more tender than any lobster I’ve ever had. I still think about the crab legs from Tracy’s and doubt that I’ll ever taste anything better. If you’re ever in Juneau, you have to go. Just look for the small wooden shack by the Holland America ship.

Tracy’s King Crab Shack
Juneau, AK

Two Fat Bellies Hit the Road – Alaska

Sunday, June 21st, 2009 by virginia

We set sail for Alaska from Seattle on the Norwegian Pearl, one of the newer ships from the Norwegian Cruise Line. It was my first time cruising on open water (I’ve only been on river cruises in the Nile and in the Yangtze) so it was quite a different experience for me. While I ended up not being thrilled with cruising, it’s pretty much the only way to see Alaska and therefore totally worth the journey. The scenery in Alaska is more breathtaking than you can imagine, and none of my photos will do it any justice. Although there was less snow than I thought there would be, the pristine environment just makes you feel so close to nature. We saw countless whales, lots of seals, a few dolphins, and even bears in the wild. It really just doesn’t get any better than that.

Seattle Day 2 – Chukar Cherries

Sunday, June 21st, 2009 by virginia

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There are lots of vendors and stalls at Pike Place Market but one that really stands out is Chukar Cherries. How can you walk by a giant display of chocolate covered cherries and not stop for a free sample? They usually have several varieties available for tasting, from milk chocolate to dark chocolate coatings and different kinds of dried cherries. They also offer other goodies such as nuts and trail mixes, available in different sized packages.

Cabernet cherries and black forest cherries

Cabernet cherries and black forest cherries

We picked up a few bags of cabernet cherries covered in dark chocolate, and some black forest cherries, which are covered in semisweet chocolate and cocoa powder. They were pretty pricey though, so it’s definitely not a snack that you can gorge on. But that’s ok, because they’re so rich and decadent that I found it hard to eat too many at once. They made a great little treat for us on our cruise, and they also make great gifts for your friends. Just make sure you don’t put them in a hot place because they melt easily!

Chukar Cherries
1529 Pike Place
Seattle, WA

Seattle Day 2 – Daily Dozen Doughnut Company

Sunday, June 21st, 2009 by virginia

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We had some time to kill in the morning before we could get on our cruise ship, so we headed back to Pike Place Market to pick up breakfast and a few snacks for the trip. Our first stop was the Daily Dozen Doughnut Company, which makes piles of mini doughnuts right in front of you.

Doughnuts on display

Doughnuts on display

We picked up a dozen plain and a dozen assorted, which included powdered sugar, cinnamon, and chocolate frosted with sprinkles. We also got cups of hot Seattle coffee because you simply can’t have doughnuts without coffee. These doughnuts are about half the size of regular cake doughnuts, and you can eat a lot of them without even thinking about it.

The size of the doughnuts compared to a cup of coffee

The size of the doughnuts compared to a cup of coffee

Unfortunately, the plain ones were sitting out for longer than the other assorted doughnuts, so they were cold and a bit stiff. We tossed them in the same bag as the warmer sugar and cinnamon doughnuts, and that helped a lot. They also got a light dusting of the cinnamon and sugar, which was not a bad thing.

The chocolate frosted doughnuts were my favorite. They have a thick layer of chocolate frosting on top and are covered in sprinkles. What’s not to like?

Chocolate frosted doughnut with sprinkles

Chocolate frosted doughnut with sprinkles

I liked these doughnuts a lot, except for the plain ones. I’m just not a plain doughnut kind of girl but if you like old fashioned doughnuts, these are definitely for you. The assorted doughnuts are good to get because you can try all of them. They really aren’t that little, and I don’t eat doughnuts often, but we were able to easily finish off two dozen between five of us.

Daily Dozen Doughnut Company
93 Pike St.
Seattle, WA