Archive for 2009

Pio Pio

Monday, November 16th, 2009 by virginia

DSCN2080

As I mentioned earlier in my post about our trip to the Galapagos, Peru is still at the top of our “must visit before kids” list. Seeing Macchu Picchu will have to wait until next year at least, but in the meantime, we were happy to be able to try some Peruvian cuisine when Josh’s parents suggested we go to Pio Pio for Sunday night dinner.

We headed to the Upper West Side branch of the restaurant, and it was a good thing we called for a reservation because the place was packed, and there were nine of us altogether. The music they were playing was loud and upbeat, which made the atmosphere seem very festive. Our table wasn’t quite ready yet when we arrived so we squeezed ourselves by the small bar area and ordered a pitcher of sangria to start. The sangria is pretty decent, not awesome, but also a bit dangerous because it’s sweet and goes down like juice.

Pitcher of sangria

Sweet and fruity pitcher of sangria

I don’t think I’ve eaten Peruvian cuisine before, but I knew we had to get some ceviche since that’s a notoriously Peruvian dish. We chose the Cebiche Mixto, which was chunks of fish, shrimp, octopus, calamari, and scallops marinated in lime juice and mixed with red onion, cilantro, and hot peppers. It was a very refreshing dish, as the seafood was tangy with a nice little kick from the hot pepper. The scallops were my favorite part – fresh, tender, and tasty.

Cebiche mixto

Cebiche mixto

We ordered two Matador combos, which came with avocado salads to start. The avocado was properly ripe and fresh but I thought the salad was a bit boring overall. The ceviche was a much better starter.

Avocado salad

Avocado salad

The Matador combos also included chicken pio, which is a whole marinated chicken in a Peruvian sauce. One order of the chicken is pretty large and can feed about four people. It was tender and juicy on the inside and a little crispy on the outside. The meat was well seasoned and I enjoyed it a lot.

Crispy and juicy pieces of chicken

Crispy and juicy pieces of chicken

The combos also came with rice and beans, tostones, and salchipapas. The rice and beans were just eh. The beans didn’t have enough seasoning and they just tasted bland.

Rice and beans

Rice and beans

The tostones were superb. Big pieces of plantain were pressed flat and fried to a nice crisp. They came with a container of garlic sauce on the side to dip with, and you know how much I love garlic sauce with tostones.

Tostones with garlic sauce

Tostones with garlic sauce

I didn’t know what salchipapas were but when they arrived, I was so excited because I’ve seen pictures of them on other blogs. Salchipapas are basically French fries topped with slices of hot dogs. I love French fries, and I love hot dogs. Put them together – wow! My new favorite side dish! The hot dogs were cooked after they had been sliced so they were a little crispy on the edges and just worked so well with the thick cut French fries. Even without ketchup, I ate almost an entire plate of this by myself.

Salchipapas

Salchipapas

In addition to the Matador combos, we got a large order of the Jalea, which is a fried seafood platter. The large order really is large but the seafood is really heavily breaded. I identified pieces of calamari and fish, but after a while everything just sort of got clumped together and it was hard to tell exactly what you were eating. There was a little bit of onion and tomato salsa sprinkled on top of the platter, but otherwise, the seafood was under seasoned and lacked pizzazz. It definitely needed some sort of dipping sauce, or extra lime to squirt on top. I was pretty disappointed with this dish and wouldn’t order it again.

Another disappointment was the Arroz Chaufa, which was Peruvian style Chinese fried rice. We opted for the beef, and it was mixed with eggs, onions, and soy sauce. However, this dish also lacked seasoning and just tasted heavy and oily. I can make better fried rice at home.

Beef fried rice

Beef fried rice

The Camarones Cuzco were sautéed garlic shrimp on top of yellow rice. This was also an unmemorable dish. The shrimp were fine, if a bit lacking in flavor, and the rice was nothing special.

Camarones

Camarones Cuzco

I did like our side order of maduros though. The sweet plantains were thick cut and fried so that they had a nice texture but weren’t too greasy or starchy.

Maduros

Maduros

We were pretty stuffed after all that food so we decided to split one dessert, a slice of tres leches cake. Some people also ordered coffee or espresso, which really confused the waitstaff for some reason. Josh wanted an espresso, and they kept bringing a regular coffee. Someone else wanted decaf, and they also kept bringing a regular coffee. It was really kind of laughable, they just kept bringing out the same cups of coffee over and over, until we got fed up and just took whatever they were offering. Josh thinks he wound up with a cup of decaf coffee, or else it was the worst regular coffee he has ever drank. It definitely was not worth the aggravation.

Tres leches cake

Tres leches cake

The tres leches cake was ok. I’ve only had it once before so I don’t really have a basis of comparison. The cake itself is a bit dry, but the milk that they soak it in makes it wet. So it tastes kind of like a sweet gritty wet cake to me. I think I’ll pass on it next time.

Overall I thought the food at Pio Pio hit some pretty high highs and some pretty low lows. Service, however, was not so great. In addition to the coffee issues, we had placed two orders of the Matador Combo but they only brought out one order, so some of us had to wait an extra half hour to get a piece of chicken. It also threw of the timing of the meal a bit. I ended up eating more of the Jalea than I wanted to, only because I was hungry while waiting for the rest of the chicken and the sides to arrive. And by the time they arrived, I was pretty full yet unsatisfied. I kind of felt like the only time they really paid attention to us was to constantly refill our sangria glasses so that we would have to keep ordering more pitchers.

Negatives aside, I really did enjoy the chicken, and the ceviche. I’d go back there just for these items. The side dishes were also really good, except for the rice and beans. The combos are pretty decent deals if you’re splitting with a lot of people. Otherwise, I might just order a pio chicken a la carte and then cherry pick my favorite sides, like the salchipapas and the tostones. Just make sure that if you do go with a big group to make a reservation. It was late on a Sunday night and the restaurant was still hopping when we left.

Pio Pio (multiple locations)
702 Amsterdam Ave. at 94th St.
New York, NY

Del Posto

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009 by virginia

DSCN4660

I’ve been wondering when the news that the Enoteca at Del Posto had closed would finally break. Mario Batali made the announcement last Thursday that it’s part of his strategy to get back Del Posto’s second Michelin star, as well as a four-star review from the New York Times. We actually found out about the closing a few weeks ago, as we already had a reservation made for the Enoteca on October 28 that someone from the restaurant called to cancel due to the closing. Instead, they offered us the regular Del Posto menu at the standard Enoteca prix fixe price of $52. Considering the regular price of the Del Posto menu is $95, we weren’t too disappointed or upset by the switch.

When our friends Claire and Sean told us they would be visiting NYC in October, we had decided that we would have to organize a nice dinner while they were here. Lots of emails back and forth ensued, and finally we settled on the Enoteca, which was offering a special $35 prix fixe menu on weekdays.

Josh and I had gone to the Enoteca a few years ago when Del Posto first opened and we thought it was one of the greatest restaurant values in the city. The prix fixe back then was around $40 and the food was superb. Even though we were seated in the nook next to the bar, we still felt like we were a part of the regular restaurant, and the service was exemplary. I had been eager to go back but for some reason we never did, and so I was really looking forward to this dinner. Even though I was sad that the Enoteca would no longer be an option, I was looking forward to trying items from the regular Del Posto menu.

The group of us that went to Del Posto ended up being the Alinea dinner crew plus one, and it was really great to share another elaborate meal with people who are interested in food and like to try different things. We were seated at a large round table near the center of the main dining area, which gave us a nice view of the whole restaurant. I like the décor there, which isn’t too modern or too fussy. I also like that the second level of the restaurant is open, making the space lofty and airy.

The meal started off with three different amuse bouches. The first, a lettuce soup topped with parmesan foam served in a white shot glass, was kind of weird and actually not really that appetizing. It tasted like wilted boiled lettuce, and had a sludgey texture. Also, once you got past the foam, which was just ok, it was a murky brown/green color that was kind of off-putting. The other two amuses fared better but nothing was really outstanding. The second, a pea puree and parmesan fritter, was sweet and salty but otherwise unmemorable. The third, a kind of gougere with salami, was salty and light and the best of the bunch.

Platter of amuse bouches - lettuce soup with parmesan foam on the left, salami puffs in the back, pea and parmesan fritters in front

Platter of amuse bouches - lettuce soup with parmesan foam on the left, salami puffs in the back, pea and parmesan fritters in front

The bread basket arrived next, and I was in carb heaven. The bread basket is actually what I remembered most about our previous dinner at the Enoteca. It was loaded with crusty baguettes, dense olive bread, light and crispy breadsticks, fluffy focaccia bread, and other assorted rolls. My favorite was the baguette but I happily tried all the other offerings in the basket as well.

Basket full of delicious breads

Basket full of delicious breads

Plus the bread came with both butter and lard for spreading. Lard! I know it sounds gross, but really, it tastes fabulous. It has a gamey flavor to it that you just don’t get from butter.

Not exactly the most appetizing presentation but delicious sweet butter on the left and salty lard on the right

Not exactly the most appetizing presentation but delicious butter on the left and tasty lard on the right

Moving on to our first course, I selected the vongole marinate with fried artichokes and minte farro dressing, which was one of the dishes the waiter recommended. Big mistake! The dish wasn’t bad, but it was confusing. I don’t know if there were actually clams in the dish and I didn’t see any, although I thought I tasted some but I wasn’t sure. If you can’t be sure, you know you’re in trouble. Mostly I just tasted the nuttiness from the farro, and I could see tiny bits of fried artichokes, but it wasn’t really a cohesive dish. It was my least favorite of all the appetizers we had at the table and I wouldn’t recommend it.

Vongole marinate with fried artichokes and mint faro dressing

Vongole marinate with fried artichokes and minte farro dressing

The winner of the group I think was the carne cruda with truffle and parmesan. I thought it would be like beef carpaccio, but it was more like steak tartare. And it was quite possibly the best steak tartare I’ve ever had. We could smell the truffle essence coming off the plate, and the flavors just all worked so well together. The beef was fresh and sweet, the parmesan added a nice saltiness, and the truffle and porcinis were so earthy. I couldn’t stop stealing bites from Josh’s plate.

Carne cruda with truffle and parmesan

Carne cruda with truffle and parmesan

Other appetizers on the table included the special of the day, a foie gras mousse with figs, which Claire ordered, and a lobster salad fra diavola. Both were also much better than the vongole, especially the foie gras mousse.

For the pasta course, we selected two pastas from the list that would be shared by everyone at the table. The first was a pumpkin ravioli with almond milk and black truffle. The pumpkin filling was nice – not too sweet or dessert-like, but there wasn’t enough sauce to dress the raviolis. We could smell the truffle in the sauce but it didn’t pack too much flavor, and the lack of sauce overall made the dish very dry and boring. There were pieces of chopped almonds on top for a texture contrast I think, but they clashed with the rest of the dish. It was disappointing because the combination had so much potential but it really didn’t work out in the end.

Pumpkin ravioli with almond and truffles

Pumpkin ravioli with almond and truffles

The second pasta was spaghetti with Dungeness crab, sliced jalapeno and minced scallion. This is a dish that I’ve heard so much about ever since Del Posto opened and I’ve been dying to try it. I must say that it exceeded even my high expectations. The spaghetti packs so much crab flavor that they must cook it in a crab stock. The noodles are thick and al dente, just the way I like it, and the jalapeno and scallions add a nice freshness to the dish. I think there is also lime juice or some other citrus in the sauce, as it has a zippy tang to it. The chunks of crab on top were sweet and tasty, and I enjoyed every bite of this pasta.

Spaghetti with dungeness crab, jalapenos, and minced scallions

Spaghetti with dungeness crab, jalapenos, and minced scallions

For my main course, I selected the roasted lamb rack with a puttanesca sauce and sautéed basil. The lamb chops were ginormous! Seriously, I’ve never seen a rack of lamb that large before. But also really tasty and beautifully cooked to medium rare as requested. The puttanesca sauce though was a bit overpowering in olive flavor; I prefer to taste lamb on its own. The sautéed basil was interesting, as I’ve never seen basil cooked and served in the same way as spinach, and while it’s good if you like basil, there is just too much of it and it gets overwhelming. So I treated that more as a garnish rather than a side. Nevertheless, just eating the mutant-sized lamb was satisfying enough.

Rack of lamb with puttanesca sauce and sautéed basil

Rack of lamb with puttanesca sauce and sautéed basil

Josh had the cacciucco, which was kind of like a bouillabaisse. It was assorted shellfish (clams, mussels, lobster) and scallop carpaccio served in a garlic bread soup. The scallop carpaccio was the highlight, with large tender pieces that practically melted in my mouth. The broth was also tasty and flavorful, not overpoweringly fishy, and the seafood was cooked beautifully. I dipped lots of bread into the leftover broth when he was done.

Cacciucco with scallop carpaccio and garlic bread soup

Cacciucco with scallop carpaccio and garlic bread soup

For dessert, Josh decided to be super adventurous and ordered the sfera di caprino, celery and fig agrodolce, and celery sorbetto. It was the most savory of the desserts and involved spheres of goat cheese covered in crunchy bits. I admit, I was skeptical when he ordered it, and it turned out to be the best dessert of the evening. It was such an unusual combination of flavors but the goat cheese wasn’t too tangy or gamey, and the celery was so light and refreshing that it really did taste like dessert. It just goes to show that being daring can pay off in great dividends.

Sfera di caprino, celery and fig agrodolce, and celery sorbetto

Sfera di caprino, celery and fig agrodolce, and celery sorbetto

I selected the chocolate ricotta tortino with pistachios and extra virgin olive oil gelato. I picked this dish because of the olive oil gelato, which I tried at another Batali restaurant, Otto, and absolutely loved. The gelato is rich and creamy and really does taste like olive oil sprinkled with sea salt on top. It’s another thing that sounds weird but tastes so delicious. The chocolate cake was just ok, a bit dry and boring, but it tasted much better when eaten with the olive oil gelato. It was a dessert that worked well as a whole, but didn’t work as well if eaten separately.

Chocolate ricotta tortino with pistachios and extra virgin olive oil gelato

Chocolate ricotta tortino with pistachios and extra virgin olive oil gelato

We also had a tartufo al caffe with dark chocolate, coffee, and candied lemon for the table, as they brought an extra dessert by mistake and graciously allowed us to keep it. However, it was pretty disappointing and boring – basically just coffee ice cream in a dark chocolate shell. Nothing about this dessert stood out, which is surprising since it was one that the waiter had recommended.

Tartufo al caffe with dark chocolate, coffee, and candied lemon

Tartufo al caffe with dark chocolate, coffee, and candied lemon

Other desserts on the table included the torta al rosmarino with cherry Macedonia, pecans, and yogurt gelato, which was an unremarkable chestnut cake, and a dessert called four chocolates and four rums ($10 supplement), which is exactly how it sounds. Basically they pour tastings of different rum that are paired with chocolates of varying intensity. Not being a rum fan, I didn’t try any of the combinations, but Mike and Claire seemed to have fun with it.

Four rums and four chocolates

Four chocolates and four rums

We also ordered a round of coffee drinks to finish up our meal. They brought out little petit fours for us to try, which included pieces of shortbread with flecks of black pepper in it, red currant jelly, apricot bars, and chocolate brownies. My favorite was the apricot bars, which had an intense fruit flavor. The shortbread was also pretty good because it wasn’t too sweet and I was sugared out at this point.

Plate of petit fours

Plate of petit fours

Overall I have to say that I was a bit disappointed by this meal at Del Posto. The thing is, nothing was bad. But aside from the carne crudo and the crab spaghetti, nothing really blew my mind. Everything else was just good or adequate. I know that Del Posto is looking to earn more stars and I just don’t think this food would cut it. I just wasn’t excited or surprised by anything, aside from Josh’s goat cheese and celery dessert. I love it when I first taste something and it makes me catch my breath and open my eyes wide in amazement. Every single course at Alinea and Le Bernardin did that for me. Most of the dishes here did not.

Service was also satisfactory but not spectacular. I liked that they knew immediately from our reservation that we would be offered the Del Posto menu at the Enoteca price without us having to bring it up awkwardly when it came time to pay. And they let us wait at the bar until everyone arrived, then carried our drinks over for us, even though they also would have let us sit at the table to begin with if that was what we preferred. But even though he was knowledgeable about the menu, most of the waiter’s suggestions were disappointments, which was surprising to me. I know everyone has different tastes, but all of us at the table pretty much agreed on which dishes we liked best, and those weren’t it. In fact, they were some of the biggest disappointments, taste-wise.

And while the staff swept the table when serving our courses, they also served the entrees while one person at the table was in the bathroom, a huge gaffe in my opinion. They covered his dish with a silver dome but the rest of us were left to uneasily decide whether we should start without him or let our own food get cold. The sommelier also didn’t really impress us. While she did offer a few suggestions and elaborately seasoned our glasses before serving our wine selections, she had a hard time answering basic questions about why the wines were served in differently shaped glasses. I know those all may sound like petty complaints, but after reading various accounts about what other restaurants have done to earn the elusive third Michelin star, the difference is really in the details.

So what’s my final verdict? The meal we had was a bargain at $52, but it would have been a disappointment if we had paid $95. I know price shouldn’t really play into how good a meal was, but it does. When you’re shelling out that kind of money for a meal, everything should be perfect, or at least close to perfect. But the food wasn’t astounding nor was it on the same level as other restaurants with similar price points. I think Batali and crew will need to make a lot more changes aside from eliminating the Enoteca. I’m also not sure how getting rid of the Enoteca fixes anything, as it was a really great way for people to try the food (although from a less extravagant menu) and get the Del Posto experience even if they couldn’t afford the standard Del Posto prices. It gave the restaurant more exposure, but I guess being more exclusive and inaccessible is the direction in which they are heading. Sad. But I do respect Del Posto owners Mario, Joe Bastianich, and Lidia Bastianich (who has been my favorite chef since I was little) so I wish them the best of luck on their quest for more stars. If I hear that they do make other improvements to the restaurant, I’ll happily go back and give it another shot.

Del Posto
85 10th Ave. between 15th and 16th St.
New York, NY

#3 – Kikugawa – The best 5 meals of my life (so far)

Monday, November 2nd, 2009 by josh

Taipei Taiwan. November 2008
Omakase
This was a meal I will never forget, although it took me six weeks to find the name of the restaurant. This was my second time to Taiwan and one of the reasons I was so excited to return was because the food, the sushi especially, remained in my memory. Some time on the 4-day drive from Taipei to Tainan I had mentioned my, and my family’s, affinity for Japanese food to Virginia’s uncle while she and her siblings slept in the back seat. When we got back to Taipei, my parents and sister arrived for our wedding banquet he arranged this meal the night before we returned to New York. It was a 16-course omakase-style meal. Here was the progression:

Crabmeat and Vegetable Maki

Crabmeat and vegetable maki

Yellowtail Sushu

Yellowtail sushi

Shredded sweet potato with ikura and shiso

Shredded sweet potato with ikura and shiso

Snapper sashimi

Snapper sashimi

Torched salmon sushi and tuna sashimi

Torched salmon sushi and tuna sashimi

Torched halibut sashimi

Torched halibut sashimi

Sashimi - Taiwanese native fish

Sashimi - Taiwanese native fish

Marinated raw snapper

Marinated raw snapper

Octopus

Tender Octopus

There are no words to describe how good this next course was.  Until I had the “truffle explosion” at Alinea, it was the best single bite of food I’ve ever had:

Lettuce wrap with rice, toro, ikura and uni

Lettuce wrap with rice, toro, ikura and uni

Melt-in-your-mouth beef

Melt-in-your-mouth beef

Sturgeon filet atop soft tofu

Sturgeon filet atop soft tofu

Toro maki

Toro maki

Shrimp and Scallop in the lightest tempura batter

Shrimp and Scallop in the lightest tempura batter

Clam soup with basil and garlic

Light clam soup with basil and garlic

Red bean soup, mochi, and green-skinned orange

Red bean soup, mochi, and green-skinned orange

No doubt the best Japanese meal I’ve ever eaten.

Galapagos Day 7 – Bartolome & Santiago

Saturday, October 31st, 2009 by virginia

This was our last day in the Galapagos so of course we wanted to pack in as many activities as possible. We opted to do everything that was offered, which included waking up super early to walk to the top of Bartolome Island before breakfast. It wasn’t an easy walk, as we had to climb 372 steps to get to the top, but there was a nice breeze and the view was spectacular.

View of Bartolome Island and Pinnacle Rock

View of Bartolome Island and Pinnacle Rock

After breakfast we donned our snorkeling gear one last time and headed to the beach on the island. We chose to do the dune walk first, which was a short hike over a hilly and sandy terrain.

Walking over the sand dune

Walking over the sand dune

At the beach on the other side of the dune, the colors of the landscape were just gorgeous. We saw lots of neat little critters along the shore.

Red sally lightfoot crab on the green algae-covered rocks

Red sally lightfoot crab on the green algae-covered rocks

We also watched birds pecking through the wet sand to pick up little crabs with their beaks. It was actually pretty cool because it seemed as though they were just randomly digging their beaks through the sand, but every 30 seconds or so they would come up with a tiny squirmy little crab that they would gobble right up. We also saw the shadow of a shark swimming back and forth near the shoreline though we didn’t get a good view of it.

Bird searching for tiny crabs in the sand

Bird searching for tiny crabs in the sand

After heading back to the other side of the dune, we jumped right into the water and began snorkeling around Pinnacle Rock.

Pinnacle Rock

Pinnacle Rock

Here we saw tons of starfish of all sizes and colors. There were black and red ones, sandy beige ones, and my favorite, the chocolate chip starfish, which are yellow and sprinkled with what looks like chocolate chips on top.

Multi colored starfish

Multi colored starfish

The highlight of this snorkeling trip, however, was our second encounter with a shark underwater. This time it had white marks on its fins so we were able to identify it as a white tip reef shark. We were also close enough to get a picture of it, and chased it for a while before it disappeared out to sea.

White tipped reef shark

White tip reef shark

We made it all the way around Pinnacle Rock, then rushed back the same way to shore to pick up a zodiac that would take us to the glass bottom boat. The glass bottom boat is an option offered so that people who don’t snorkel can still see wildlife underwater. Even though we snorkeled at every opportunity, we were curious to see what the glass bottom boat was like so we signed up for the very last outing. It turned out to be a worthwhile time, as we saw a huge stingray swimming underneath the boat. It really is a great alternative for non-snorkelers.

Looking through the glass bottom

Looking through the glass bottom

After our busy morning, we headed back to the ship for our departure briefing and lunch. We had some down time before our last hike in the Galapagos, which was on Santiago Island. We had a nice leisurely walk along the shore and saw many of the animals we’ve been seeing all along on our trip. There were piles of marine iguanas…

DSC_0613 small
Cutie baby sea lions with big puppy dog eyes…

DSC_0653 small
And little lava lizards climbing over the rocks…

DSC_0596 small
At one point all of the different hiking groups converged and there was a big commotion in a tidal pool down below us. Apparently someone’s hat had blown off into the water and one of the naturalists was climbing down the rocks to retrieve it because he didn’t want any sea lions to eat it or get caught on the string. He eventually did get the hat, but not before jumping into the water and getting totally soaked because he couldn’t climb back up the rock wall.

Naturalist climbing down the rocks to retrieve a hat

Naturalist climbing down the rocks to retrieve a hat

After all the excitement, the naturalists gave us some free time and wander around the vicinity. Josh and I ended up sitting on some rocks and just watched the sun start to set and the waves crashing all around. It was beautiful and peaceful, and a totally bittersweet moment for us as we knew it was our last day to experience the islands.

Peaceful and gorgeous

Peaceful and gorgeous

We hiked back to the zodiac landing sight and came across the most touching moment – a mother sea lion reuniting with her pup at the edge of the water. The female sea lions leave their pups in search for food and can be gone for days at a time. During this time, the pups basically starve because other females won’t share their milk. If a mother sea lion dies out at sea, her pup will die as well because no one else will feed it. We watched in awe as a mother waded in from the water calling for her pup, and a baby sea lion running down the beach to meet its mother, barking excitedly. They reunited on the shore and snuggled for a bit before the mother laid down, exhausted, and allowed her pup to nurse. As we piled onto the zodiacs and pulled away from the island, I turned around and saw the mother and pup walking inland together just as the sun was setting. It was a moment I’ll never forget, and the perfect ending to our last day in the Galapagos.

Mother and baby sea lion reunited

Mother and baby sea lion reunited

Breakfast:

French toast, scrambled eggs, croissant, and some sort of fritter

French toast, scrambled eggs, croissant, some kind of fritter

Lunch:

Black bean soup

Black bean soup

Rice, fish, french fries, fried chicken, french bread, pasta salad with tuna

Rice, fish, french fries, fried chicken, french bread, pasta salad with tuna

Passion fruit mousse

Passion fruit mousse

Chocolate chocolate chip cookie

Chocolate chocolate chip cookie

Dinner:

Caesar salad

Caesar salad

Filet mignon, mashed potatoes, broccoli

Filet mignon, mashed potatoes, broccoli

One more white fish

One more white fish

Fruit cake and ice cream

Fruit cake and ice cream

Galapagos Day 6 – Cerro Dragon and Sombrero Chino

Tuesday, October 20th, 2009 by virginia

We set out for Cerro Dragon, or Dragon Hill, right after breakfast in search of land iguanas. This was one of the more beautiful places we visited, which is saying a lot considering everything we saw was pretty amazing and beautiful. We landed near a sandy beach with crystal clear blue water contrasted by black lava rocks and a volcano in the background.

Pretty beach and crystal clear water

Pretty beach and crystal clear water

Moving inland, we walked through a forest of giant prickly pear cactuses. The color of the cactuses against the blue water and blue sky was just stunning.

Giant prickly pear cactuses

Giant prickly pear cactuses

We saw lots of different birds hopping about and playing in whatever little water there was during this dry season. While I couldn’t tell the difference between finches and mockingbirds, the one bird that stood out most was the yellow warbler, a tiny bird with bright yellow coloring.

Tiny yellow warbler

Tiny yellow warbler

Throughout our walk, we would catch glimpses of land iguanas in the distance or hiding under trees. However, our hike was halted when we came upon the most incredible sight – IGUANA FIGHT!

Land iguanas viciously fighting over territory

Land iguanas viciously fighting over territory

These two land iguanas were really going at it, right in the middle of the trail path. All of the groups from our ship ended up converging at this point and we were totally mesmerized by the fight. It was pretty brutal, as each tried to bite the either on the tail, leg, or neck. Whenever one got hold, he would shake the other violently. We could hear the loud CHOMP as they bit into skin, and both iguanas were bleeding from bite wounds. We stood there watching for about 20 minutes before we had to leave to finish the hike, and they were still going at it after we left. To see video footage of this incredible fight, go here to the daily expedition report on the Lindblad Expeditions website.

We returned to the ship, quickly donned our snorkeling gear, and headed straight back out on a zodiac to do some deep water snorkeling at Guy Fawkes. We saw lots of colorful little fish but the walls of the rock underwater was the real highlight. It was a mix of bright reds and oranges and greens, and there were fish darting in and out little crevices. We just floated next to the wall and observed this amazing underwater world.

Colorful underwater universe

Colorful underwater universe

After lunch we had another round of snorkeling near Sombrero Chino in a bay surrounded by craggly rocks. It was here that we had our first up close view of Galapagos penguins. They were just sitting calmly on the rocks, and occasionally one would jump off and dart through the water. It was kind of mind blowing to know that a place on the Equator, where it’s hot and there are sandy beaches and flamingos, also has penguins.

Galapagos penguin just chillin' on the rocks

Galapagos penguin just chillin' on the rocks

We also saw our very first shark on this snorkeling trip! It was a shock to see it swimming past us underwater, but then we got over the shock and tried to follow it to get some pictures. It was way too fast though and soon went out of our view. We didn’t see any white tips on the fins though, so it might have been a Galapagos shark but we’re not exactly sure.

Not a shark but still a pretty cool pic

Not a shark but still a pretty cool underwater pic

After snorkeling we immediately did some kayaking, as it was the last day to do so. We were kayaking in the same bay where we had been snorkeling and were able to get really close to the rock where all the penguins were sitting.

Penguins just hanging out in the sun

Penguins just hanging out in the sun

We circled the bay, getting a good view of the “Chinese Hat” and scoping out a bull sea lion barking at one end. We were much more successful in navigating the kayaks this time around and it was relaxing yet still a good workout.

Does it look like a Chinese Hat?

Does it look like a Chinese Hat?

After a jam-packed day, we ended it with a delicious bbq dinner on the pool deck. It was cool and breezy and the perfect night to dine alfresco. Too bad it was cloudy that night so we didn’t get a good view of the stars but it was a nice evening nevertheless.

Breakfast:

Scrambled eggs, croissant, potato pancake w/applesauce, smoked salmon with tomato, brown bread, and cream cheese

Scrambled eggs, croissant, potato pancake w/applesauce, smoked salmon with tomato, brown bread, and cream cheese

Lunch:

Butternut squash and ginger soup

Butternut squash and ginger soup

Paella with seafood and meat, french bread, crab salad with quinoa, pasta salad, ham and cheese tart

Paella with seafood and meat, french bread, crab salad with quinoa, pasta salad, ham and cheese tart

Pistachio and strawberry ice cream with a chocolate chip cookie and whipped cream

Pistachio and strawberry ice cream with a chocolate chip cookie and whipped cream

Dinner:

BBQ ribs, BBQ chicken, fish kebabs, garlic bread, fried green plantains, sausage, baked potato, cole slaw

BBQ ribs, BBQ chicken, fish kebabs, garlic bread, fried green plantains, sausage, baked potato, cole slaw

Festival of flan - caramel, chocolate, and soursap

Festival of flan - caramel, chocolate, and soursop

Lemon meringue pie

Lemon meringue pie

Galapagos Day 5 – Santa Cruz

Monday, October 19th, 2009 by virginia

This was an exciting day for us, as it was the only day where we would spend time in a town in the Galapagos. Right after breakfast we landed at Puerto Ayora and took a short bus ride and walk to the Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS).

DSC_0108 smallWe walked around and our naturalist guide told us about the different breeding programs that the CDRS manages, and how the scientists from the station gather information about the islands to bolster their conservation efforts. We visited Diego, who came from the San Diego zoo and has helped restore his species from near extinction. We also saw Lonesome George, the only one of his kind, whom they’re trying to breed with females of a different but similar species. However, he doesn’t seem too fond of his “girlfriends”, and it’s said that he hates them with all his heart.

Lonesome George

Lonesome George

All the baby tortoises that are hatched at the CDRS are kept in cages until they get bigger. These babies really are tiny, considering how much bigger they will get later on in life. Giant tortoises can live for over 100 years.

Teeny tiny baby tortoises

Teeny tiny baby tortoises

There were also many giant tortoises that were once people’s pets and now have a home at the CDRS. They are unable to fend for themselves so they are kept at the station. We were able to watch them during feeding time and because they’re so used to humans, we were able to approach them face to face.

Two giant tortoises fighting over food and territory

Two giant tortoises fighting over food and territory

After we left the CDRS, we walked back through town and did a little shopping along the way. We passed the fish market and it was quite a sight to behold! There were pelicans everywhere, trying to steal the fish, and there were sea lions trying to get in on the action as well. There was one sea lion standing up against the counter just watching the fishermen clean the fish, hoping for a handout. It was absolutely hilarious and adorable at the same time. It reminded me of a dog standing up and begging for scraps.

Pelicans and sea lions crowding the fish market

Pelicans and sea lions crowding the fish market

Back in the center of town we hopped on buses that took us to a restaurant called Altair that is located in the highlands. It’s a cute family-run place with a swimming pool, volleyball, and hammocks available for their guests’ use. We had a fabulous meal there that was some of the best food we had on the entire trip.

The cute and rustic dining area

The cute and rustic dining area

After lunch they gave us different options on how to spend our afternoon. Josh and I chose Option 1, which was do it all. First we swapped our shoes for tall Wellington boots (it’s a lot rainier in the highlands so the paths are muddy) and headed to Los Gemelos, two pit craters that were formed when lava collapsed. These were gigantic craters that are now covered in trees and plants.

Huge pit crater, one of Los Gemelos

Huge pit crater

The endemic scalesia trees that surround the pit craters were really pretty to look at, even though they’re just trees. Something about the shapes of their branches and colors set against a brilliant blue sky just made them seem so incredibly beautiful.

Beautifully unique scalesia trees

Beautifully unique scalesia trees

After Los Gemelos, we went to search for wild giant tortoises. We drove to a private property that is on the tortoise migratory route. It has a large wide open field with plenty of grass and plants for tortoises to munch on so there is generally a good chance for tortoise sightings. We saw about a dozen spread out all over the field. Since these are wild tortoises you have to approach them from behind, otherwise they will hide inside their shells and you won’t be able to see their heads. These tortoises were HUGE and they look so prehistoric, with wrinkly faces and ginormous feet.

They look prehistoric, or like aliens

They look prehistoric, or sort of like aliens!

We spent some time taking pictures of the tortoises, then headed back into town. Josh and I opted to stick around town and do some more shopping, had a drink at a local bar, then took the last zodiac back to the ship. It was a long and tiring day but so worthwhile. We learned a lot about the Galapagos conservation and restoration efforts and got to spend some time observing more amazing creatures.

Leaving Puerto Ayora on the last zodiac

Leaving Puerto Ayora on the last zodiac

Breakfast:

Eggs benedict, croissant, kiwi, scrambled eggs, bacon

Eggs benedict, croissant, kiwi, scrambled eggs, bacon

Lunch (at Altair):

Fried green bananas with salsa - a great appetizer

Fried green bananas with salsa - a great appetizer

Insanely good bbq chicken, vegetable frittata, fresh tomatoes and onions, mashed potatoes

Insanely good bbq chicken, vegetable frittata, fresh tomatoes and onions, mashed potatoes

Fruit cup for dessert

Fruit cup for dessert

Dinner (back on the ship):

Vegetable soup with fresh avocado

Vegetable soup with fresh avocado

Ham with applesauce, mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables

Ham with applesauce, mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables

A white fish (sorry, I suck at remembering fish types!) with a beurre blanc sauce

A white fish (sorry, I suck at remembering fish types!) with a beurre blanc sauce

Lemon curd with fruit

Lemon curd with fruit

Galapagos Day 4 – Isabela and Fernandina Islands

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009 by virginia

We woke up early yet again to sit out on deck and look for whales and other marine wildlife. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any, but we did hear some interesting stories about whaling ships in the Galapagos, such as the one that inspired the book Moby Dick. We also had some nice views of the volcanoes on Isabela.

Volcano at dawn

Volcano at dawn

After breakfast we took a zodiac ride around Punta Vicente Roca. As soon as we ventured out we ran into a huge group of sea turtles swimming around our zodiac.

Sea turtle swimming next to our zodiac

Sea turtle swimming next to our zodiac

On the rocks of the island we saw some flightless cormorants fluttering their short stubby wings. These birds can’t fly but they can sure swim! We saw a few diving in the water. We also saw sea lions, fur seals, and marine iguanas perched on the rocks.

Flightless cormorant spreading its wings

Flightless cormorant spreading its wings

We ventured into a cave where some sea lions were frolicking about, then headed toward to the open sea in search of the elusive mola mola, or ocean sunfish. Unfortunately that wasn’t successful either, but it was relaxing to zoom around on the zodiacs rather than hiking rocky terrain.

Right after the zodiac ride we donned our snorkeling gear once again and headed back out to the area where we saw all the sea turtles. There were about a dozen in our immediate vicinity and some were quite large. This was when Josh almost ran into one, as he was chasing a diving cormorant trying to take a picture of it. He was concentrating so much on the bird that he didn’t see a turtle coming straight at him and had to flail his arms about to prevent himself from running into it. We all had a good laugh at his expense.

More underwater turtle shots

More underwater turtle shots

After a delicious Ecuadorian buffet lunch that featuring a whole roasted suckling pig and two of the best desserts I’ve ever tasted, a sandwich cookie filled with caramel and a sinfully moist tres leches cake, we took an afternoon excursion to Punta Espinosa. We trekked over the solid black ropey lava that covers this part of the island and saw more sea lions, flightless cormorants, and tons of marine iguanas.

Ropey lava and lava cactuses

Ropey lava and lava cactuses

At one point we saw the massive remnants of whale bones, though those were brought to that particular area, not because a whale had actually died on that spot. Still, they were pretty cool.

Whale bones

Whale bones

Josh thought the ropey lava reminded him of the glaciers in the Alaska. I could see the similar characteristics but they were a much smaller scale on the lava. The cracks in the lava were nothing like the crevasses that you could fall into in the glaciers. As we prepared to take the zodiacs back to the ship, we were treated to yet another beautiful sunset.

DSCN3590

Breakfast:

French toast, scrambled eggs with ham, muffin

French toast, scrambled eggs with ham, muffin

Lunch:

Ceviche topped with popcorn and roasted corn kernals

Ceviche topped with popcorn and roasted corn kernals

Whole roasted suckling pig

Whole roasted suckling pig

Rice, avocado, pan de yuca, suckling pig, hominy, yuca fritter, fish I think, beet salad in the middle

Rice, avocado, pan de yuca, suckling pig, hominy, yuca fritter, fish I think, beet salad in the middle

The best tres leches cake and caramel sandwich cookie, plus a stewed fig in the back

The best tres leches cake and caramel sandwich cookie, plus a stewed fig in the back

Dinner:

Endive and apple salad with walnuts

Endive and apple salad with walnuts

Super moist turkey topped with mushrooms, sweet potato puree and some kind of frittata

Super moist turkey topped with mushrooms, sweet potato puree and some kind of frittata

Some kind of white fish topped with bruschetta

Some kind of white fish topped with bruschetta

Tiramisu

Tiramisu

Galapagos Day 3 – Floreana

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009 by virginia

We woke up super early in the morning to take the optional excursion to Post Office Bay. There’s a barrel there where whalers used to drop off letters to their loved ones. People returning to their homeland would stop by the barrel and check to see if there were any letters addressed to whatever city they were going to. It was their duty to take the letter, if any, and deliver it personally. It might take years for a letter to arrive home but I’m sure that whoever was on the receiving end of one of these letters would be ecstatic to hear any word from their loved one.

The Post Office Barrel in Post Office Bay

The Post Office Barrel in Post Office Bay

In keeping with the tradition, we all wrote postcards to place in the barrel and hope that they will arrive at their destinations one day. The naturalists also went through the postcards already in the barrel and yelled out the names of cities in the addresses. People who lived in/near whatever city, or planned on visiting it soon, would raise their hands and take the postcard. Several postcards were matched, including one that we volunteered to take to the upper east side. It was really fun and exciting to take part in such an old tradition.

The postcard we deposited in the barrel in hopes that it will reach our parents one day

The postcard we deposited in the barrel in the hope that it will reach our parents one day

After depositing our postcards in the barrel, we headed back to the ship for a quick breakfast, then we donned our wetsuits and gear for some deep water snorkeling near Champion Island. It was here that we encountered our very first sea turtle, which was almost surreal. The turtle just swam about his business while we clustered around and tried to get a few underwater pictures. The other fish were pretty cool too, but there’s nothing like seeing your first sea turtle up close and personal.

Our first encounter with a sea turtle

Our first encounter with a sea turtle

In the afternoon we had a wet landing on the sandy beach at Punta Cormorant. It was a relatively easy hike next to a large lake that was filled with pink flamingos. Unfortunately we weren’t able to get very close to the flamingos, who were on the other side of the lake from us, but it was pretty cool nonetheless. We watched them feeding in the water (they get their pink color from the small crustaceans they eat) and even saw a few birds taking flight.

Pink flamingos in the distance

Pink flamingos in the distance

We headed to the beach on the opposite shore where we saw the large indentations of sea turtle nests. My hat almost blew off on top of them but I was able to trap it before it would disturb the nests. Phew!

The sandy beach where the sea turtles lay their eggs

The sandy beach where the sea turtles lay their eggs

We spent a while just watching birds flying over head before heading back to the zodiacs. The sun was starting to set at that point and it cast a beautiful pink glow to the sand and the rocks. It was really such a peaceful moment to be standing on the beach looking out at the sunset and hearing the waves lapping against the shore. It really made me appreciate all the beauty that nature has to offer.

Nature at its best

Nature at its best

Breakfast:

Whole wheat toast, bananas, scrambled eggs, bacon, broccoli frittata, pancake, fried yuca filled with cheese

Whole wheat toast, bananas, scrambled eggs, bacon, broccoli frittata, pancake, fried yuca filled with cheese

Lunch:

Fish soup with coconut milk

Fish soup with coconut milk

Penne alfredo, spaghetti bolognese, linguini pesto, french bread, potato salad, chicken salad sandwich

Penne alfredo, spaghetti bolognese, linguini pesto, french bread, potato salad, chicken salad sandwich

Really delicious walnut tart

Really delicious walnut tart

Dinner:

Chicken consomme

Chicken consomme

Rice with raisins, string beans, and super dry practically inedible duck

Rice with raisins, string beans, and super dry practically inedible duck

Tilapia(?) with tasty sauce - way better than the dry duck!

Tilapia(?) with tasty sauce - way better than the dry duck!

Chocolate mousse cake

Chocolate mousse cake

Strawberry shortcake for Hannah's birthday

Strawberry shortcake for Hannah's birthday

Galapagos Day 2 – Española Island

Monday, October 12th, 2009 by virginia

Our first excursion today was a hike at Punta Suarez where we were greeted by an adorable sea lion pup. There was also a huge bull sea lion patrolling the waters and barking nonstop, marking his territory for all to hear.

Adorable sea lion pup

Adorable sea lion pup

After we hike a short distance along the beach, we saw a massive pile of marine iguanas just laying on the side of the path. There must have been at least a hundred of them just clustered together, some lying on top of others.

Big pile of marine iguanas

Big pile of marine iguanas

Further along the path we saw a family of blue footed boobies, with a father sitting on top of two chicks and a mother standing guard nearby.

A happy family of boobies

A happy family of boobies

We were so close to this family yet they were totally unperturbed and sat there peacefully. I really can’t describe how amazing this is.

There's another baby boobie under there as well that's hidden from view

There's another baby booby under there as well that's hidden from view

Then our next sight was two sea lion pups playing together and snuggling next to each other. It was just too cute for words.

Seriously cute pups

Seriously cute pups

As we moved inland, we came across the nesting grounds of the waved albatrosses. These birds are huge! Their chicks are the size of turkeys and not much more attractive. They’re brown and fuzzy and move clumsily across the ground.

Freaky looking waved albatross chick

Freaky looking waved albatross chick

We saw many adults though soaring gracefully overhead; the area is known as the albatross airport. We had some incredible views as we hiked along the cliff, watching the waves crash into the rocks and a blowhole spurting water high into the air.

Birds flying off the cliffs

Birds flying off the cliffs

The albatrosses weren’t the only birds nesting. We came across a Nazca booby (the green footed booby) incubating an egg.

Nazca booby sitting on an egg

Nazca booby sitting on an egg

After we returned to the ship and had lunch, we headed to Gardner Bay, a beautiful stretch of beach where more sea lions were lounging. This was our first opportunity to snorkel so we opted to practice from the beach first before taking a zodiac to a large rock off the shore.

Sea lions laying on the beach and a rainbow in the distance

Sea lions laying on the beach and a rainbow in the distance

The more experienced snorkelers went deep water snorkeling at another location, but because this was my very first time snorkeling, I wanted to try in shallow water first to see how I would react to it. Water, as many of you know, is not my friend. However, I loved snorkeling from the beginning and we soon ventured out to the deeper rock. The very first thing we saw? A gigantic stingray sitting on the floor, half covered by a rock. It was HUGE. We also saw tons of colorful fish and it was absolutely thrilling for me. I’ve been bitten by the snorkeling bug.

IMG_3338 small

School of surgeonfish

As if the hiking and the snorkeling wasn’t enough, Josh and I also signed up for kayaking for later in the afternoon. The ship keeps six inflatable kayaks that are built for two people. They’re much wider than normal kayaks, and you sit on top of it rather than in it, so it’s much safer as there is less chance for the kayak to tip over. However, they’re also harder to maneuver. We went in circles for a bit before we finally got the hang of it.

Exploring caves in kayaks

Exploring caves in kayaks

We kayaked around a small island, even venturing into a cave to see some of the rock formations. All in all it was a tiring and activity packed day but we saw some truly incredible things.

Breakfast:

Smoked salmon and tomato on whole wheat toast, watermelon, french toast

Smoked salmon and tomato on whole wheat toast, watermelon, french toast

Lunch:

Octopus, crusty french bread, some sort of potato thing with guacamole, watermelon, beef with peppers, chicken stew, yuca

Octopus, crusty french bread, a potato thing with guacamole, watermelon, beef with peppers, chicken stew, yuca

Rice pudding with tree tomato compote

Rice pudding with tree tomato compote

Dinner:

Prosciutto with melon and papaya

Prosciutto with melon and papaya

Chicken in garlic sauce, potato wedges, asparagus

Chicken in garlic sauce, potato wedges, asparagus

Perfectly rare seared yellowfin tuna

Perfectly rare seared yellowfin tuna

Apple crisp with strawberry ice cream

Apple crisp with strawberry ice cream

Galapagos Day 1 – Baltra and North Seymour

Monday, October 12th, 2009 by virginia

After a quick buffet breakfast in our Guayaquil hotel, the Hilton Colon, we headed to the airport with our tour group to board a flight to the Galapagos Islands. There were around 90 of us altogether on this trip. The islands are located about 600 miles west from the coast of Ecuador so the flight time was less than two hours. After we landed at the airport in Baltra, an old U.S. Air Force base, we took buses to the nearby docks where we loaded onto zodiacs that would take us to our ship, the National Geographic Endeavour. Our first inkling that we were in for something special was that the dock was covered in sleeping sea lions. There were sea lions laying on benches and sea lions all over the ground.

Sea lions sleeping on the dock

Sea lions sleeping on the dock

You really had to watch where you walked so you didn’t step on one. And they paid us absolutely no attention; we were an arm’s length away from them snapping pictures and they simply didn’t care. It was astonishing.

Don't step on the sea lion!

Don't step on the sea lion!

Our tour, which is organized by Lindblad Expeditions, is partnered with the National Geographic Society. There are naturalists on board who accompanied us everywhere, giving us detailed explanations about what we were seeing and the history of each particular island in the Galapagos. It’s really a well-put together tour. Even though the Endeavour is a true expedition ship, it did have some some nice amenities, like a large lounge and library to hang out in. There was also a small gym, as well as a small pool out on the sun deck. It’s not one of those gigantic cruise ships that are basically floating hotels though. It’s definitely a bit more rustic, but also more intimate and homey.

After a brief orientation, we had our first lunch on the ship. Lunch is served buffet style, and there aren’t that many choices. Each day there was usually a soup, some salads, and two or three entrees and sides. Our first lunch, a vegetarian cannelloni and some sort of chicken cooked in a tomato sauce, was actually pretty bad. I was a bit worried about how that would bode for the rest of the trip, but luckily the food improved vastly after that meal.

After lunch we had an abandon ship and safety drill, then later in the afternoon we had our first excursion of the cruise. We took zodiacs from the ship to the southern shore of North Seymour. Ships in the Galapagos don’t actually dock at each island so you have to take a zodiac from the ship to the island and have either a dry landing (where you can step from the zodiac straight onto land) or a wet landing (where you land on a beach and need to step out into knee-deep water). North Seymour was a dry landing and as soon as we stepped out we were greeted by more sea lions.

Getting off the zodiac and stepping around a sea lion

Getting off the zodiac and stepping around a sea lion

My first impression of the Galapagos is that it’s actually very arid. There are cactuses and the land was pretty barren looking. These are not tropical islands, though in the spring and summer there is more green on the trees. While we were there, however, all the trees were bare and dry.

Frigate bird coming in for a landing over the dry landscape

Frigate bird coming in for a landing over the dry landscape

The highlights of North Seymour are the blue footed boobies and the great frigate birds. It’s mating season for the frigate birds so the males have these huge red pouches under their beaks that they can blow up into big balloons. The sit on the ground and look up at the females, hoping to attract them with their red pouches.

Male frigate bird with his pouch inflated ready to attract the females

Male frigate bird with his pouch inflated in hopes of attracting the females

The blue footed boobies are really beautiful, with bright blue feet (duh) and intense eyes. Josh and I are immature so we got a big kick out of the naturalist saying “look at the boobies” or “watch the boobies dancing”, which happened numerous times.

Blue footed boobie

Blue footed boobie

We saw frigate birds swooping down trying to steal food from the boobies and they would fight back. It was just incredible being in the middle of everything and being able to observe the wildlife up close.

Sea lion bidding us good night

Sea lion bidding us goodbye

After we returned to the ship there was a cocktail party in the lounge where they introduced us to the captain and the staff. There were cocktail hours every night of the cruise where we’d gather in the lounge for some snacks and drinks (alcohol is extra on the ship) and one of the naturalists would recap the day and Paula, our expedition leader, would tell us about the next day’s activities. It’s a nice time to unwind from the day and whet our appetites for dinner.

Each day the dinner menu is posted after breakfast and you sign up for which entree you want. That way they don’t waste food and can prepare exactly what is needed. I’m sure though that if you changed your mind when dinner came, they would accommodate you. But reducing waste is a big part of their conservation efforts.

Dinner is served by the waitstaff, and everyone kind of just sits wherever there is room. Our dinner companions changed every night, though there were some people we ended up eating with more often than others. It was really quite pleasant and a great way to get to know most of the people on the ship.

There were always three entree options for dinner, and Josh and I would pick the meat entree and the fish entree, ignoring the vegetarian option. Appetizers and desserts were the same for everyone. We would each eat half of our entree and then switch plates, so we could taste both dishes. The food was better on some nights than others, but overall it was pretty good. The fish entrees were consistently good and properly prepared. The meat entrees were more inconsistent but aside from one incinerated duck, nothing was inedible. Plus we were so active each day that we were absolutely starving by the time dinner rolled around. Lets just say that despite all of the hiking, snorkeling, and kayaking that we did, our bellies remained fat as ever!

Breakfast (at the Hilton Colon):

Banana bread, pan de yuca, sweet corn tamale, chicken empanada, some sort of fritter stuffed with cheese, and bacon

Banana bread, pan de yuca, sweet corn tamale, chicken empanada, some sort of fritter stuffed with cheese, bacon

Lunch (on the ship):

Broccoli and cheese soup topped with fresh avocado

Broccoli and cheese soup topped with fresh avocado

Garlic bread, pasta salad, coconut rice, chicken in tomato sauce, vegetarian canneloni

Garlic bread, pasta salad, coconut rice, chicken in tomato sauce, vegetarian cannelloni

Dinner:

Mushroom soup

Mushroom soup

Rice pilaf, spinach frittata, pork tenderloin

Rice pilaf, spinach frittata, pork tenderloin

Fish option (I don't remember what kind of fish it was!)

Fish option (I don't remember what kind of fish it was!)

Chocolate cheesecake

Chocolate cheesecake