Our friend Alex first introduced us to the Corner Bistro back in college (he went to NYU nearby), and it’s been my favorite burger place in the city ever since. Maybe I had some emotional attachment to it, because we would always hang out there with our friends from high school when we were home during breaks, but I thought the burgers were absolutely fantastic. They were always thick, juicy, and flavorful, and we would wash them down with countless mugs of McSorley’s dark followed by plates of crispy thin cut French fries.
When we eventually moved into the city after graduation, Corner Bistro was still a relatively frequent destination for us. If we were out drinking somewhere near the west village, we inevitably ended the night lining up for burgers at the always crowded bar/restaurant. And maybe I loved Corner Bistro because those burgers always tasted wonderful after a night of drunken debauchery.
After we moved uptown, however, we never found ourselves having the opportunity to go to the Corner Bistro. Anytime we ventured downtown we would usually end up at our favorite bar, Reade Street Pub and Kitchen. So over a year went by before Josh and I finally went back, after attending an open house up the block after work one day.
We got there at just the right time – there was no line for a table in the back room but a few minutes after we were seated, the place filled up and the familiar line soon snaked down the length of the bar. We both ordered our usual, a hamburger for me, a bistro burger for Josh, fries, and mugs of McSorley’s dark. I was happy to see that even after so long, prices have hardly risen. It was a welcome respite after seeing other burger places jack up their prices ridiculous amounts when they became more popular and well known (I’m looking at you, Burger Joint!).
Mugs of McSorley's dark
Our food arrived pretty quickly, and I couldn’t wait to dive in. The burger looked just like I remembered – thick, dripping with juice, on a soft sesame seed bun, accompanied by slices of tomato, onion, and lettuce. The only difference was that it was served on a plastic plate rather than a paper plate.
Hamburger with lettuce, tomato, onions, and pickles
It was huge once it was assembled, and I had to flatten it down a bit before I could take a bite. And the verdict? Disappointing.
Massive burger once assembled
The burger was cooked medium rare as requested, but the patty had sort of a gristly, crumbly texture to it. It tasted more greasy than juicy, and there was no seasoning to speak of. Even with ketchup, the meat just tasted bland. I was shocked by how bad I thought the burger was.
Autopsy shot
Maybe my disappointment was deeper because this was my favorite burger, the one that I’ve championed over the years above the Shake Shack or Burger Joint or all the other highly touted burgers. But then I thought, maybe I loved this burger because of my emotional attachment to the Corner Bistro, and back in those days my palate wasn’t the same as it is now, plus we had usually been drinking before we ate the burgers. This time I was stone cold sober, hungry but not starving, and I’ve had the opportunity to expand my palate more over the years.
Whatever the case, even though I was hugely dissatisfied, Josh still loved his bistro burger. The bistro burger is basically a bacon cheeseburger, and his was also cooked medium rare as requested. I took a bite of his burger and could see why he enjoyed it – the bacon added much needed saltiness to the burger, and the cheese provided a nice gooey texture to the otherwise crumbly patty. In that regard, the bistro burger is a better choice, because bacon and cheese can hide a lot of flaws.
Bistro burger (bacon and cheese)
At least the fries were still as good as I remembered – hot, thin, and crispy. They’re always served right of the fryer and are never greasy or soggy.
Crispy thin cut french fries
I felt pretty let down after we left the Corner Bistro, but I’m not quite ready to write the burgers off just yet. Yes, I thought the burger was really bland and unseasoned, but maybe it was an off night. Josh thinks that I should have just sprinkled some salt on the patty after I took my first bite, but I’m not in the habit of seasoning my burgers after they’ve been served to me. I plan on going back, and soon, to see if this was just a fluke. Either way, the bar is a fun place to hang out, and everything is refreshingly cheap. You can still get a burger and fries for less than $10, and mugs of McSorley’s are only $2.50 each. There are lots of TVs in the front room so you can watch a game and drink beer while you wait in line for a table. I just haven’t decided yet if the burger is still worth the wait, but I’m willing to give it another shot, if only for old time’s sake.
Corner Bistro
331 West 4th St. at Jane St. and 8th Ave.
New York, NY
Tags: Burgers, Fries, West Village