This was an exciting day for us, as it was the only day where we would spend time in a town in the Galapagos. Right after breakfast we landed at Puerto Ayora and took a short bus ride and walk to the Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS).
We walked around and our naturalist guide told us about the different breeding programs that the CDRS manages, and how the scientists from the station gather information about the islands to bolster their conservation efforts. We visited Diego, who came from the San Diego zoo and has helped restore his species from near extinction. We also saw Lonesome George, the only one of his kind, whom they’re trying to breed with females of a different but similar species. However, he doesn’t seem too fond of his “girlfriends”, and it’s said that he hates them with all his heart.
Lonesome George
All the baby tortoises that are hatched at the CDRS are kept in cages until they get bigger. These babies really are tiny, considering how much bigger they will get later on in life. Giant tortoises can live for over 100 years.
Teeny tiny baby tortoises
There were also many giant tortoises that were once people’s pets and now have a home at the CDRS. They are unable to fend for themselves so they are kept at the station. We were able to watch them during feeding time and because they’re so used to humans, we were able to approach them face to face.
Two giant tortoises fighting over food and territory
After we left the CDRS, we walked back through town and did a little shopping along the way. We passed the fish market and it was quite a sight to behold! There were pelicans everywhere, trying to steal the fish, and there were sea lions trying to get in on the action as well. There was one sea lion standing up against the counter just watching the fishermen clean the fish, hoping for a handout. It was absolutely hilarious and adorable at the same time. It reminded me of a dog standing up and begging for scraps.
Pelicans and sea lions crowding the fish market
Back in the center of town we hopped on buses that took us to a restaurant called Altair that is located in the highlands. It’s a cute family-run place with a swimming pool, volleyball, and hammocks available for their guests’ use. We had a fabulous meal there that was some of the best food we had on the entire trip.
The cute and rustic dining area
After lunch they gave us different options on how to spend our afternoon. Josh and I chose Option 1, which was do it all. First we swapped our shoes for tall Wellington boots (it’s a lot rainier in the highlands so the paths are muddy) and headed to Los Gemelos, two pit craters that were formed when lava collapsed. These were gigantic craters that are now covered in trees and plants.
Huge pit crater
The endemic scalesia trees that surround the pit craters were really pretty to look at, even though they’re just trees. Something about the shapes of their branches and colors set against a brilliant blue sky just made them seem so incredibly beautiful.
Beautifully unique scalesia trees
After Los Gemelos, we went to search for wild giant tortoises. We drove to a private property that is on the tortoise migratory route. It has a large wide open field with plenty of grass and plants for tortoises to munch on so there is generally a good chance for tortoise sightings. We saw about a dozen spread out all over the field. Since these are wild tortoises you have to approach them from behind, otherwise they will hide inside their shells and you won’t be able to see their heads. These tortoises were HUGE and they look so prehistoric, with wrinkly faces and ginormous feet.
They look prehistoric, or sort of like aliens!
We spent some time taking pictures of the tortoises, then headed back into town. Josh and I opted to stick around town and do some more shopping, had a drink at a local bar, then took the last zodiac back to the ship. It was a long and tiring day but so worthwhile. We learned a lot about the Galapagos conservation and restoration efforts and got to spend some time observing more amazing creatures.
Leaving Puerto Ayora on the last zodiac
Breakfast:
Eggs benedict, croissant, kiwi, scrambled eggs, bacon
Lunch (at Altair):
Fried green bananas with salsa - a great appetizer
Insanely good bbq chicken, vegetable frittata, fresh tomatoes and onions, mashed potatoes
Fruit cup for dessert
Dinner (back on the ship):
Vegetable soup with fresh avocado
Ham with applesauce, mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables
A white fish (sorry, I suck at remembering fish types!) with a beurre blanc sauce
Lemon curd with fruit